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The culinary colonisation of the globe may now have us all eating the same old margherita pizzas and arrabiata pastas. But there is one last bastion of gastronomic independence: breakfast. The things we can bear to put in our stomachs right after rising are often the most culturally authentic things about us. And nowhere is that truer than in China. 烹饪方式在全球的殖民式推广，或许让我们现在全都吃着一样的传统玛格丽特比萨和香辣番茄意大利面。但还有最后一座堡垒在坚守着烹饪方式独立：早餐。我们能忍受一起床就吃下肚的东西，从文化角度而言往往是最真实地反映我们是谁的东西。而中国比其他任何地方都更符合这句论断。 Nobody loves things western more than the Chinese, but when the sun comes up on any Chinese city the east dominates the breakfast trade. Like their ancestors before them, even the most westernised Shanghainese queue up before bamboo towers of steamed buns, spitting woks of crispy bottomed dumplings and steaming vats of rice gruel, to eat food that proudly declares its Chineseness. 没有哪个民族比中国人更喜爱西方的东西，但在中国任何一座城市，当太阳升起的时候，早点生意绝对是“东风压倒西风”。哪怕是最西化的上海人，也会像他们的祖辈一样，在码得高高的一笼笼包子，一锅锅滋滋作响的锅贴，和一桶桶热气腾腾的米粥前排队等候，以享用这些自豪地宣告自己中国身份的食物作早餐。 | 
