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Women Are Defining Paris Couture 巴黎高定品牌，现在由女性主宰 PARIS — Something unexpected has happened at the Paris couture — the tippy tippy top of the European fashion pyramid and the beating heart of its identity. Steadily, quietly, seemingly overnight (though obviously not) it has become defined by women: not those to whom it caters, but those in charge. 巴黎——巴黎高定作为欧洲时尚金字塔的最顶端以及它跳动的心脏，发生了一件意想不到的事情。平和地、静悄悄地、仿佛就在一夜之间（尽管显然不是），它已被女性所定义：女人不仅仅是时装周所要迎合的对象，她们也成了执掌大权的人。 The three most famous French couture houses are now designed by women: at Chanel, Virginie Viard is artistic director; at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri; and at Givenchy, Clare Waight Keller. Meanwhile, the most singular newgen brand on the schedule, Iris van Herpen, is (duh) run by its namesake. That may not sound like a lot, but in a contracting discipline it means the balance of the power of influence is in their hands. Like what they do or not — and the results were mixed — there is no question, as the shows got underway, that a troika dominated the conversation. 法国最著名的三大时装公司现在都由女设计师担纲：维尔吉尼·维亚德（Virginie Viard）在香奈儿（Chanel）担任艺术总监；迪奥(Dior)的艺术总监是玛丽亚·格拉齐亚·基乌里（Maria Grazia Chiuri）；纪梵希（Givenchy）则是克莱尔·维特·凯勒（Clare Waight Keller）。与此同时，当前最独特的新一代品牌艾莉丝·范·赫本（Iris van Herpen）则由她本人运营（哈）。听起来可能不多，但是根据合同约束，这意味着影响力的平衡掌握在她们手中。无论她们做什么、不做什么——其结果是好坏参半——毫无疑问，随着走秀继续进行，女性的三驾马车主导了对话。 | 
