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When Russian River released Pliny the Younger in February, 300 thirsty fans lined up outside the tiny Santa Rosa, Calif., brewpub for the first sip of this super-hoppy beer. Hop flavors fade fast, and for IPAs and even stronger Imperial IPAs like Pliny, fresh is best: It's on tap once a year and runs dry in days. But as the screechingly hop-forward brews of the craft-beer movement's first wave give way to deeper, more complex flavors, the revolution is moving down to the cellar. For some beer lovers, the best bottles aren't the freshest, they're the dustiest. 加州 罗莎(Santa Rosa)的小酒馆Russian River今年2月份推出Pliny the Younger时，300名发烧友排队等候在门外，迫不及待地想在第一时间品尝这款酒花味超浓的啤酒。由于酒花味会迅速变淡，因此印度淡色艾尔啤酒(简称IPA)和Pliny这种更加浓烈的帝王IPA(Imperial IPA)最好趁新鲜品尝：这款啤酒一年推出一次，几天就会售罄。但随着手工精酿啤酒第一波浪潮中代表性的刺激酒花味让位于更加深邃复杂的味道，这场变革正在延伸至酒窖。在一些啤酒爱好者看来，最好的酒并不是那些最新鲜的，而是最有年头的。 As with many of beer's latest trends -- limited editions, a preoccupation with terroir, cork-sealed bottles -- this one takes cues from the wine world. At restaurants like San Francisco's Abbot's Cellar, the cicerones, beer's equivalent of sommeliers, pour celebrated vintage brews like Baladin's Port-like 2009 Xyauyu Etichetta Oro. | 
