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Modelling tsunamis 模拟海啸 The dangers of insularity 岛国的危险 Islands may amplify the biggest waves, not breakthem 岛屿可能会增强海啸，而不会减弱海啸 SURFERS shun beaches shielded by islands off the coast. 冲浪者不会去海中的岛屿的沙滩上去冲浪。 That, as generations of swarthy, golden-haired hulks will tell you, is because such islandscreate a natural breakwater. 一代又一代的金发肤色黝黑的冲浪者会告诉你，那是因为这类小岛形成天然的防波堤。 Thisdampens waves and makes for a boringly calm surf best left to sunbathers. 这类岛屿的沙滩海浪较小，海面很平静，最适合晒日光浴的人了。 The surfers reasoning is sound for the short-wave, wind-generated swells that they ride. 较短、由风产生浪比较适合冲浪，对于这种浪来说，这种解释很合理。 But Themistoklis Stefanakis, of the Ecole Normale Superieure in Cachan, France, warns itmay not be true for the longer wavelengths of tsunamis. 但是，来自法国卡尚高等师范学校Themistoklis Stefanakis警告说，对于波浪较长的海啸来说，就不一样了。 | 
