让人既爱又恨的葡萄酒 餐饮达人的心声
<p><span word="There">There</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="many">many</span> <span word="wines">wines</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="much">much</span> <span word="beloved">beloved</span> -- <span word="and">and</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="few">few</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="notoriously">notoriously</span> <span word="reviled">reviled</span>. <span word="Silver">Silver</span> <span word="Oak">Oak</span> <span word="Cellars">Cellars</span> <span word="Cabernet">Cabernet</span> <span word="happens">happens</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="both">both</span>. <span word="It">It</span>'<span word="s">s</span> <span word="incredibly">incredibly</span> <span word="popular">popular</span>, <span word="especially">especially</span> <span word="among">among</span> <span word="patrons">patrons</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="American">American</span> <span word="steakhouses">steakhouses</span>. <span word="It">It</span>'<span word="s">s</span> <span word="also">also</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="running">running</span> <span word="joke">joke</span> <span word="among">among</span> <span word="certain">certain</span> <span word="oenophiles">oenophiles</span> <span word="who">who</span> <span word="regard">regard</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="choice">choice</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="vinous">vinous</span> <span word="rubes">rubes</span>.</p><p>有很多葡萄酒深受人们喜爱——也有些酒饱受非议。<span word="Silver">Silver</span> <span word="Oak">Oak</span> <span word="Cellars">Cellars</span>的解百纳(<span word="Cabernet">Cabernet</span>)碰巧都是。这款酒非常受欢迎，特别是在美国牛排餐厅。在有些葡萄酒爱好者看来，这款酒却一直是个笑话，他们认为嗜酒的乡巴佬才会选择。</p><p><span word="I">I</span> <span word="first">first</span> <span word="experienced">experienced</span> <span word="this">this</span> <span word="peculiar">peculiar</span> <span word="dichotomy">dichotomy</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="dozen">dozen</span> <span word="years">years</span> <span word="ago">ago</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="late">late</span> <span word="Veritas">Veritas</span> <span word="restaurant">restaurant</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="New">New</span> <span word="York">York</span>. <span word="I">I</span>'<span word="d">d</span> <span word="spent">spent</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="better">better</span> <span word="part">part</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="week">week</span> <span word="following">following</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Veritas">Veritas</span> <span word="wine">wine</span> <span word="team">team</span> -- <span word="Tim">Tim</span> <span word="Kopec">Kopec</span>, <span word="Eric">Eric</span> <span word="Zillier">Zillier</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Joshua">Joshua</span> <span word="Nadel">Nadel</span> -- <span word="around">around</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="magazine">magazine</span> <span word="story">story</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="crew">crew</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="one">one</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="best">best</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="New">New</span> <span word="York">York</span>, <span word="as">as</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="wine">wine</span> <span word="list">list</span>, <span word="which">which</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="deep">deep</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="selections">selections</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="Bordeaux">Bordeaux</span>, <span word="Burgundy">Burgundy</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Rhone">Rhone</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="also">also</span> <span word="featured">featured</span> <span word="lots">lots</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="expensive">expensive</span> <span word="California">California</span> <span word="Cabernets">Cabernets</span>. <span word="It">It</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="Silver">Silver</span> <span word="Oak">Oak</span> <span word="alone">alone</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="provoked">provoked</span> <span word="Scott">Scott</span> <span word="Bryan">Bryan</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="restaurant">restaurant</span>'<span word="s">s</span> <span word="chef">chef</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="time">time</span>, <span word="to">to</span> <span word="make">make</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="sort">sort</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="mocking">mocking</span> <span word="salute">salute</span> <span word="whenever">whenever</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="sommelier">sommelier</span> <span word="carried">carried</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="through">through</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="kitchen">kitchen</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="into">into</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="dining">dining</span> <span word="room">room</span> (<span word="which">which</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="fairly">fairly</span> <span word="often">often</span>).</p><p>我最早体验到这种奇怪的矛盾现象是十几年前在如今已经关闭的纽约<span word="Veritas">Veritas</span>餐厅。那周大部分时间我都跟着<span word="Veritas">Veritas</span>的葡萄酒团队——蒂姆·科佩茨(<span word="Tim">Tim</span> <span word="Kopec">Kopec</span>)、埃里克·齐利亚(<span word="Eric">Eric</span> <span word="Zillier">Zillier</span>)和乔舒亚·纳德尔(<span word="Joshua">Joshua</span> <span word="Nadel">Nadel</span>)——到处跑，为的是给杂志写一篇稿子。这个团队是纽约最棒的，他们的酒单也一样，都是从波尔多(<span word="Bordeaux">Bordeaux</span>)、勃艮第(<span word="Burgundy">Burgundy</span>)和罗纳河谷(<span word="Rhone">Rhone</span> <span word="Valley">Valley</span>)精心挑选的酒，还有很多昂贵的加州解百纳。单单<span word="Silver">Silver</span> <span word="Oak">Oak</span>惹着了当时餐厅的主厨斯科特·布莱恩(<span word="Scott">Scott</span> <span word="Bryan">Bryan</span>)，每次品酒师拿着酒穿过厨房去餐厅时，他就会做出某种嘲笑的手势。</p>
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