闻香识人 香水广告经久不衰的诉求
<p><span word="There">There</span>'<span word="s">s</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="long">long</span>-<span word="running">running</span> <span word="trope">trope</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="perfume">perfume</span> <span word="advertising">advertising</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="perfume">perfume</span> <span word="speaks">speaks</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="what">what</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="broadcasts">broadcasts</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="message">message</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="wearer">wearer</span>.</p><p>香水广告一个经久不衰的诉求点就是香水能说话，能传递有关香水使用者的信息。</p><p><span word="In">In</span> <span word="the">the</span> 1950<span word="s">s</span>, <span word="many">many</span> <span word="perfumes">perfumes</span> <span word="spoke">spoke</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="message">message</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="feminine">feminine</span> <span word="sexuality">sexuality</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="subversive">subversive</span> <span word="message">message</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="only">only</span> <span word="socially">socially</span> <span word="acceptable">acceptable</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="spoken">spoken</span> <span word="subliminally">subliminally</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="invisibly">invisibly</span>, <span word="in">in</span> <span word="perfume">perfume</span>. <span word="In">In</span> <span word="the">the</span> 1950<span word="s">s</span> <span word="perfume">perfume</span> <span word="ad">ad</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="Primitif">Primitif</span>, <span word="under">under</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="image">image</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="sultry">sultry</span> <span word="super">super</span>-<span word="vixen">vixen</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="half">half</span>-<span word="parted">parted</span> <span word="lips">lips</span> <span word="who">who</span> <span word="looks">looks</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="she">she</span> <span word="just">just</span> <span word="jumped">jumped</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="cover">cover</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="pulp">pulp</span> <span word="novel">novel</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="tagline">tagline</span> <span word="asks">asks</span>, '<span word="Why">Why</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="let">let</span> <span word="your">your</span> <span word="perfume">perfume</span> <span word="say">say</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="things">things</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="would">would</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="dare">dare</span> <span word="to">to</span>?'</p><p>上世纪50年代，许多香水传递的是女性的性感；在当时的社会，这种大胆、具有颠覆性的信息只允许通过香水隐晦地透露一二。当时的<span word="Primitif">Primitif</span>香水广告中就是一个超级惹火的娇艳女郎，樱唇微启，活生生从低俗小说封面中跳出来一样，下面的广告语是：“为何不让你的香水把你不敢说的说出来呢？”</p><p><span word="In">In</span> <span word="Guerlain">Guerlain</span>'<span word="s">s</span> <span word="Chant">Chant</span> <span word="d">d</span>'<span word="Aromes">Aromes</span> <span word="ad">ad</span> <span word="from">from</span> 1965, <span word="we">we</span>'<span word="re">re</span> <span word="told">told</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="great">great</span> <span word="perfume">perfume</span> <span word="must">must</span> <span word="do">do</span> <span word="two">two</span> <span word="things">things</span>: '<span word="It">It</span> <span word="must">must</span> <span word="express">express</span> <span word="something">something</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="woman">woman</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="she">she</span> <span word="would">would</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="express">express</span> <span word="herself">herself</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="must">must</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="said">said</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="away">away</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="can">can</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="understood">understood</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="men">men</span>.' <span word="And">And</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="Nuance">Nuance</span> <span word="ad">ad</span> <span word="from">from</span> 1978, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="few">few</span> <span word="years">years</span> <span word="before">before</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="big">big</span>-<span word="shouldered">shouldered</span> 1980<span word="s">s</span> <span word="fragrances">fragrances</span> <span word="such">such</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="Giorgio">Giorgio</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Christian">Christian</span> <span word="Dior">Dior</span>'<span word="s">s</span> <span word="Poison">Poison</span> <span word="shouted">shouted</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="messages">messages</span>, <span word="women">women</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="told">told</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="perfume">perfume</span> <span word="shouldn">shouldn</span>'<span word="t">t</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="too">too</span> <span word="strong">strong</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="loud">loud</span>. '<span word="If">If</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="want">want</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="capture">capture</span> <span word="someone">someone</span>'<span word="s">s</span> <span word="attention">attention</span>,' <span word="it">it</span> <span word="advised">advised</span>, '<span word="whisper">whisper</span>.'</p>
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