清酒配汉堡 能拯救日本酒文化吗
<p><span word="LONDON">LONDON</span> — <span word="Kensuke">Kensuke</span> <span word="Shichida">Shichida</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="head">head</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="centuries">centuries</span>-<span word="old">old</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="brewery">brewery</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="southern">southern</span> <span word="Japan">Japan</span>, <span word="had">had</span> <span word="spent">spent</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="dizzying">dizzying</span> <span word="week">week</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="London">London</span> <span word="restaurants">restaurants</span> <span word="tasting">tasting</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="variety">variety</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="exotic">exotic</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="confounding">confounding</span> <span word="dishes">dishes</span>: <span word="pub">pub</span> <span word="food">food</span>, <span word="gourmet">gourmet</span> <span word="burgers">burgers</span>, <span word="French">French</span> <span word="food">food</span>, <span word="Angus">Angus</span> <span word="beef">beef</span>, <span word="ceviche">ceviche</span>.伦敦——日本南部一家有一百多年历史的清酒厂的老板七田谦介(<span word="Kensuke">Kensuke</span> <span word="Shichida">Shichida</span>)，在伦敦的餐馆里度过了头晕目眩的一周。他品尝了各种充满异国风情又令人费解的菜式：酒吧餐、厨师汉堡、法式大餐、安格斯牛肉，还有柠汁腌鱼生。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="experience">experience</span> <span word="left">left</span> <span word="him">him</span> <span word="slightly">slightly</span> <span word="bewildered">bewildered</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="slightly">slightly</span> <span word="ill">ill</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>, <span word="suffering">suffering</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="hangover">hangover</span>.这场体验让他有点困惑，还有点不适，七田谦介说，就好像经历了一次由食物引发的宿醉。</p>现年43岁的七田谦介说，他现在有一个目标，就是要把自己家族酿制的清酒推广到欧洲的餐馆，让它与西餐搭配，开辟新的市场。七田谦介这么做实属无奈。清酒一直是日本人引以为傲的传统饮品，但它的销量几十年来却在不断下滑。趁现在还不算太晚，七田谦介和另外几位酿酒商都在设法扭转颓势。“<span word="I">I</span>’<span word="d">d</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="lying">lying</span> <span word="if">if</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="said">said</span> <span word="pairing">pairing</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="burgers">burgers</span> <span word="didn">didn</span>’<span word="t">t</span> <span word="hurt">hurt</span> <span word="my">my</span> <span word="pride">pride</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="Japanese">Japanese</span>,” <span word="he">he</span> <span word="admitted">admitted</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="recent">recent</span> <span word="dinner">dinner</span>, <span word="hesitantly">hesitantly</span> <span word="poking">poking</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="piece">piece</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="lamb">lamb</span> <span word="kidney">kidney</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="sweetbreads">sweetbreads</span> — <span word="a">a</span> <span word="first">first</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="him">him</span> — <span word="with">with</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="fork">fork</span>. “<span word="But">But</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="need">need</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="exploring">exploring</span> <span word="this">this</span> <span word="path">path</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="survive">survive</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="brewer">brewer</span>.”“如果我说，清酒配汉堡不会伤害我作为日本人的自豪感，那是在撒谎，”七田谦介最近在一次晚餐时承认道。他一边说着，一边用叉子迟疑地戳向一片羊腰和一堆羊杂。那是他第一次吃羊杂。“但作为酿酒商要存活下来，我们必须尝试这条路。”“<span word="Sake">Sake</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="surprisingly">surprisingly</span> <span word="versatile">versatile</span>,” <span word="he">he</span> <span word="added">added</span>. “<span word="I">I</span>’<span word="ve">ve</span> <span word="discovered">discovered</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="goes">goes</span> <span word="well">well</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="many">many</span> <span word="Western">Western</span> <span word="recipes">recipes</span>, <span word="perhaps">perhaps</span> <span word="even">even</span> <span word="better">better</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="wine">wine</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="beer">beer</span>.”“清酒的搭配范围之广令人称奇，”他接着说。“我发现它与很多西方菜式都可以很好地搭配，甚至可能比葡萄酒和啤酒还好。”<span word="Fresh">Fresh</span> <span word="oysters">oysters</span>, <span word="for">for</span> <span word="example">example</span>, <span word="usually">usually</span> <span word="go">go</span> <span word="pair">pair</span> <span word="well">well</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="Champagne">Champagne</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="Chablis">Chablis</span>, <span word="which">which</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="crisp">crisp</span> <span word="acidity">acidity</span>. <span word="But">But</span> <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Shichida">Shichida</span>, <span word="who">who</span> <span word="runs">runs</span> <span word="the">the</span> 140-<span word="year">year</span>-<span word="old">old</span> <span word="Tenzan">Tenzan</span> <span word="brewery">brewery</span>, <span word="says">says</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="works">works</span> <span word="better">better</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="drink">drink</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="mellower">mellower</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="less">less</span> <span word="acidic">acidic</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="cleansing">cleansing</span> <span word="properties">properties</span> <span word="help">help</span> <span word="remove">remove</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="oysters">oysters</span>’ <span word="briny">briny</span> <span word="taste">taste</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>. <span word="And">And</span> <span word="sake">sake</span>’<span word="s">s</span> <span word="umami">umami</span> — <span word="a">a</span> <span word="savory">savory</span> <span word="sensation">sensation</span> <span word="considered">considered</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="the">the</span> “<span word="fifth">fifth</span> <span word="taste">taste</span>” — <span word="helps">helps</span> <span word="improve">improve</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="fleshiness">fleshiness</span>.例如，法国生蚝一般都以口感酸爽的香槟或夏布利酒搭配。但七田谦介却说，清酒配生蚝效果更佳。他经营的天山酒造(<span word="Tenzan">Tenzan</span> <span word="brewery">brewery</span>)已有140年历史。他说，这是因为清酒更香醇、没那么酸，由于能去除邪味，它还可以消除生蚝的腥气。此外，清酒的鲜味(<span word="umami">umami</span>)——经常被称为“第五种味道”——则提升了食物的质感。<span word="At">At</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="recent">recent</span> <span word="dinner">dinner</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="Hixter">Hixter</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="restaurant">restaurant</span> <span word="here">here</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="head">head</span> <span word="chef">chef</span>, <span word="Ronnie">Ronnie</span> <span word="Murray">Murray</span>, <span word="paired">paired</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="plate">plate</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Launceston">Launceston</span> <span word="lamb">lamb</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="meaty">meaty</span> <span word="girolle">girolle</span> <span word="mushrooms">mushrooms</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Shichida">Shichida</span>’<span word="s">s</span> 75 <span word="Junmai">Junmai</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="full">full</span>-<span word="bodied">bodied</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="uses">uses</span> <span word="unpolished">unpolished</span> <span word="rice">rice</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="rarity">rarity</span> <span word="even">even</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Japan">Japan</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="Japanese">Japanese</span> <span word="generally">generally</span> <span word="prize">prize</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="contains">contains</span> <span word="highly">highly</span> <span word="polished">polished</span> <span word="rice">rice</span>, <span word="which">which</span> <span word="produces">produces</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="flowery">flowery</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="smooth">smooth</span> <span word="taste">taste</span>. <span word="By">By</span> <span word="contrast">contrast</span>, <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Shichida">Shichida</span>’<span word="s">s</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="round">round</span>, <span word="woody">woody</span> <span word="flavor">flavor</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="tempered">tempered</span> <span word="acidity">acidity</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="complemented">complemented</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="earthy">earthy</span> <span word="lamb">lamb</span>.最近在伦敦<span word="Hixter">Hixter</span>餐厅享用晚餐时，主厨朗尼·莫瑞(<span word="Ronnie">Ronnie</span> <span word="Murray">Murray</span>)以一盘朗塞斯顿羔羊肉和有肉质口感的鸡油菌，来搭配七田谦介的“纯米75”。这种清酒用糙米酿造，口味浓烈，即使在日本也很稀有。日本人一般喜欢用精米酿造的清酒，因为精米能带来一种优雅和柔滑的味道。相比之下，七田谦介的清酒则饱满直接，酸味受到了抑制，与味道浓厚的羊肉相得益彰。“<span word="Wine">Wine</span> <span word="tends">tends</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="acidic">acidic</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="cuts">cuts</span> <span word="through">through</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="taste">taste</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="meat">meat</span>,” <span word="said">said</span> <span word="Gareth">Gareth</span> <span word="Groves">Groves</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="head">head</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="marketing">marketing</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="Bibendum">Bibendum</span> <span word="Wine">Wine</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="retailer">retailer</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="recently">recently</span> <span word="announced">announced</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="stocking">stocking</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="Japan">Japan</span>. “<span word="Sake">Sake</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="less">less</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="cutting">cutting</span> <span word="through">through</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="sitting">sitting</span> <span word="alongside">alongside</span> <span word="it">it</span>.”“葡萄酒往往口感更酸，会盖过肉的味道，”必比登葡萄酒(<span word="Bibendum">Bibendum</span> <span word="Wine">Wine</span>)市场营销负责人加雷思·格罗夫斯(<span word="Gareth">Gareth</span> <span word="Groves">Groves</span>)说。这家零售商最近宣布，从日本进口了大量清酒。“清酒不太会盖住食物的味道，能够互不影响。”<span word="Most">Most</span> <span word="Westerners">Westerners</span> <span word="generally">generally</span> <span word="view">view</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="clear">clear</span>-<span word="colored">colored</span> <span word="liquor">liquor</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="savored">savored</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="sushi">sushi</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="sashimi">sashimi</span>, <span word="with">with</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="alcohol">alcohol</span> <span word="content">content</span> <span word="of">of</span> 15 <span word="to">to</span> 20 <span word="percent">percent</span>. <span word="It">It</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="thought">thought</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="originated">originated</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="seventh">seventh</span> <span word="century">century</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="considered">considered</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="drink">drink</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="gods">gods</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Shinto">Shinto</span> <span word="religion">religion</span>.多数西方人只是知道，清酒颜色澄清，要搭配寿司或刺身，酒精度在15%到20%之间。清酒据信起源于7世纪，而在日本的神道教里，清酒则被视作神祗的饮品。<span word="There">There</span> <span word="are">are</span> 80 <span word="types">types</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="rice">rice</span> <span word="specially">specially</span> <span word="designed">designed</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="produce">produce</span> <span word="sake">sake</span>, <span word="which">which</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="made">made</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="fermented">fermented</span> <span word="rice">rice</span>, <span word="water">water</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="koji">koji</span> — <span word="white">white</span> <span word="rice">rice</span> <span word="imbued">imbued</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="special">special</span> <span word="kind">kind</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="mold">mold</span>. <span word="While">While</span> <span word="wine">wine</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="typically">typically</span> <span word="served">served</span> <span word="only">only</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="glasses">glasses</span>, <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="can">can</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="poured">poured</span> <span word="into">into</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="variety">variety</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="cups">cups</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="alter">alter</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="fragrance">fragrance</span>, <span word="including">including</span> <span word="earthenware">earthenware</span>, <span word="lacquerware">lacquerware</span>, <span word="glass">glass</span>, <span word="porcelain">porcelain</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="box">box</span>-<span word="shaped">shaped</span> <span word="ones">ones</span> <span word="made">made</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="Japanese">Japanese</span> <span word="cedar">cedar</span>.专门用来酿造清酒的大米有80种。清酒是由酒酿、水和酒曲酿成的。酒曲是加入了某种特殊霉菌的大米。葡萄酒一般只用玻璃杯盛，而清酒却可以倒入不同的杯皿，酒香也会因为容器的不同而略有差异。可以盛放清酒的容器包括陶器、漆器、玻璃、瓷器，还有用日本柳杉制做的盒型容器。<span word="Sake">Sake</span> <span word="ranges">ranges</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="sparkling">sparkling</span>, <span word="somewhat">somewhat</span> <span word="similar">similar</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="Champagne">Champagne</span>, <span word="to">to</span> <span word="namazake">namazake</span>, <span word="which">which</span> <span word="tastes">tastes</span> <span word="best">best</span> <span word="straight">straight</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="vat">vat</span>, <span word="unpasteurized">unpasteurized</span>. <span word="Meaning">Meaning</span> “<span word="raw">raw</span> <span word="sake">sake</span>,” <span word="namazake">namazake</span> <span word="offers">offers</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="taste">taste</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="ethereal">ethereal</span>, <span word="as">as</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="can">can</span> <span word="sour">sour</span> <span word="within">within</span> <span word="hours">hours</span>. <span word="Some">Some</span> <span word="other">other</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="uses">uses</span> <span word="yuzu">yuzu</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="Japanese">Japanese</span> <span word="citrus">citrus</span>, <span word="making">making</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="drink">drink</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="tangy">tangy</span> <span word="cousin">cousin</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Italian">Italian</span> <span word="limoncello">limoncello</span>, <span word="while">while</span> <span word="umeshu">umeshu</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="kind">kind</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="plummy">plummy</span> <span word="version">version</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Hungarian">Hungarian</span> <span word="dessert">dessert</span> <span word="wine">wine</span> <span word="Tokaj">Tokaj</span>.清酒种类繁多，从有些类似香槟的发泡酒，到未经杀菌处理的生酒。生酒直接从酒桶汲出时味道最佳，口感妙不可言，但几个小时就会变质。还有一些清酒是用日本柚酿制的，这种柑橘属水果又称香橙，味道就像是意大利柠檬酒(<span word="limoncello">limoncello</span>)的浓郁版。而梅酒则仿佛是梅子味的匈牙利甜酒托卡伊(<span word="Tokaj">Tokaj</span>)。<span word="Some">Some</span> <span word="lesser">lesser</span>-<span word="known">known</span> <span word="koshu">koshu</span>, <span word="or">or</span> <span word="aged">aged</span> <span word="sake">sake</span>, <span word="sells">sells</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="than">than</span> $300 <span word="a">a</span> <span word="bottle">bottle</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="a">a</span> 40-<span word="year">year</span>-<span word="old">old</span> <span word="vintage">vintage</span>. <span word="Shigeri">Shigeri</span> <span word="Shiraki">Shiraki</span>, <span word="whose">whose</span> <span word="family">family</span> <span word="brewery">brewery</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="mountainous">mountainous</span> <span word="region">region</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Gifu">Gifu</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="founded">founded</span> <span word="in">in</span> 1835, <span word="is">is</span> <span word="exploring">exploring</span> <span word="how">how</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="make">make</span> <span word="her">her</span> 20-<span word="year">year</span>-<span word="old">old</span> <span word="aged">aged</span> <span word="sake">sake</span>, <span word="Daruma">Daruma</span> <span word="Masamune">Masamune</span>, <span word="palatable">palatable</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="Westerners">Westerners</span>. <span word="It">It</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="brewed">brewed</span> <span word="manually">manually</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="handful">handful</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="employees">employees</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="only">only</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="winter">winter</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="practice">practice</span> <span word="among">among</span> <span word="koshu">koshu</span> <span word="brewers">brewers</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="dates">dates</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> 17<span word="th">th</span> <span word="century">century</span>. <span word="Mrs">Mrs</span>. <span word="Shiraki">Shiraki</span> <span word="said">said</span> <span word="her">her</span> <span word="brewery">brewery</span> <span word="does">does</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="use">use</span> <span word="refrigerators">refrigerators</span>.还有一些不那么出名的古酒，即陈年清酒。一瓶40年的古酒售价在300美元以上。白木繁里（<span word="Shigeri">Shigeri</span> <span word="Shiraki">Shiraki</span>，音）是岐阜市山区一座家族清酒厂的老板。这家酒厂创立于1835年。她正在探索如何让自己酿造了20年的清酒——达摩正宗(<span word="Daruma">Daruma</span> <span word="Masamune">Masamune</span>)——适合西方人的口味。这种古酒是由几名工人手工酿制的，而且只在冬天酿造，延续了17世纪酿造古酒时普遍采用的方法。白木说她的清酒厂不用冷库。<span word="On">On</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="own">own</span>, <span word="her">her</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="salty">salty</span> <span word="undertone">undertone</span> <span word="reminiscent">reminiscent</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="soy">soy</span> <span word="sauce">sauce</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="Marmite">Marmite</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="shares">shares</span> <span word="notes">notes</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="port">port</span>, <span word="sherry">sherry</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="smoky">smoky</span>-<span word="flavored">flavored</span> <span word="Islay">Islay</span> <span word="Scotch">Scotch</span> <span word="whisky">whisky</span>. <span word="Mrs">Mrs</span>. <span word="Shiraki">Shiraki</span> <span word="suggested">suggested</span> <span word="pairing">pairing</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="particularly">particularly</span> <span word="rich">rich</span> <span word="dessert">dessert</span>, <span word="pouring">pouring</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="over">over</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="slice">slice</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="pecan">pecan</span> <span word="pie">pie</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="vanilla">vanilla</span> <span word="ice">ice</span> <span word="cream">cream</span>, <span word="or">or</span> <span word="trying">trying</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="digestive">digestive</span>.白木繁里的清酒带有一种咸味，能让人联想起酱油或马麦酱，还有一丝波尔图葡萄酒、雪利酒，或者烟熏味艾拉岛威士忌(<span word="Islay">Islay</span> <span word="Scotch">Scotch</span>)的口感。白木繁里建议搭配味道浓郁的甜品，在享用山核桃派和香草冰淇淋时倒上一杯，或者把它当成一种餐后酒。<span word="Some">Some</span> <span word="chefs">chefs</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="lovers">lovers</span> <span word="describe">describe</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="experiment">experiment</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="shot">shot</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="dark">dark</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="brewers">brewers</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="challenge">challenge</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="urgent">urgent</span>.一些大厨和美食爱好者称，用清酒所做的这种尝试结果还很难说，但对于酿酒商来说，面前的挑战越来越迫在眉睫。<span word="Sake">Sake</span> <span word="consumption">consumption</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="fallen">fallen</span> <span word="sharply">sharply</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Japan">Japan</span> <span word="since">since</span> <span word="the">the</span> 1970<span word="s">s</span> <span word="because">because</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="decreasing">decreasing</span> <span word="birthrate">birthrate</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="switch">switch</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="many">many</span> <span word="drinkers">drinkers</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="wine">wine</span>, <span word="much">much</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="imported">imported</span>, <span word="or">or</span> <span word="other">other</span> <span word="domestic">domestic</span> <span word="drinks">drinks</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="beer">beer</span>, <span word="whiskey">whiskey</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="shochu">shochu</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="Japanese">Japanese</span> <span word="spirit">spirit</span>. <span word="Japan">Japan</span> <span word="exported">exported</span> 5,000 <span word="tons">tons</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="in">in</span> 2012, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="mostly">mostly</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="Japanese">Japanese</span> <span word="restaurants">restaurants</span>, <span word="limiting">limiting</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="audience">audience</span>. <span word="Overseas">Overseas</span> <span word="sales">sales</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="still">still</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="small">small</span> <span word="fraction">fraction</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="total">total</span> <span word="sales">sales</span>.自1970年代以来，清酒在日本的消耗量就大幅下降，一个原因是出生率的不断下滑，此外许多饮酒者转而饮用葡萄酒——很大一部分是进口的——或者国内生产的其他酒类，如啤酒、威士忌或烈性的烧酒。2012年，日本出口了5000吨清酒，但主要都流入了日式餐厅，这就限制了清酒的受众。海外销售仍然只占总销量的很小部分。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="number">number</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="brewers">brewers</span> — <span word="mostly">mostly</span> <span word="old">old</span>-<span word="fashioned">fashioned</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="family">family</span>-<span word="owned">owned</span> — <span word="has">has</span> <span word="shrunk">shrunk</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="around">around</span> 1,000 <span word="from">from</span> <span word="around">around</span> 4,600 <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="earlier">earlier</span> <span word="part">part</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> 20<span word="th">th</span> <span word="century">century</span>.清酒厂的数量已经由上世纪上半叶的约4600家，减少至目前的1000家左右。大部分清酒厂都是传统的家族式酒厂。“<span word="The">The</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="industry">industry</span> <span word="won">won</span>’<span word="t">t</span> <span word="survive">survive</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="local">local</span> <span word="market">market</span>,” <span word="said">said</span> <span word="Barry">Barry</span> <span word="McCaughley">McCaughley</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="beverage">beverage</span> <span word="consultant">consultant</span> <span word="based">based</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="London">London</span>. “<span word="Unless">Unless</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="makes">makes</span> <span word="changes">changes</span> <span word="now">now</span>, <span word="it">it</span> <span word="will">will</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="dead">dead</span> <span word="in">in</span> 20 <span word="to">to</span> 30 <span word="years">years</span>.”“清酒行业单靠本地市场根本无法生存，”伦敦的餐饮行业咨询师巴里·麦可利(<span word="Barry">Barry</span> <span word="McCaughley">McCaughley</span>)说。“除非现在就做出改变，否则二三十年后清酒业就会消亡。”<span word="Restaurants">Restaurants</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="retailers">retailers</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="starting">starting</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="push">push</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="next">next</span> <span word="drink">drink</span> <span word="fad">fad</span>, <span word="similar">similar</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="craft">craft</span> <span word="beer">beer</span>, <span word="whose">whose</span> <span word="popularity">popularity</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="exploded">exploded</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Britain">Britain</span>. <span word="A">A</span> <span word="Scottish">Scottish</span> <span word="brewer">brewer</span>, <span word="Arran">Arran</span>, <span word="plans">plans</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="start">start</span> <span word="producing">producing</span> <span word="Britain">Britain</span>’<span word="s">s</span> <span word="first">first</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="commercial">commercial</span> <span word="scale">scale</span> <span word="later">later</span> <span word="this">this</span> <span word="year">year</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="second">second</span> <span word="European">European</span> <span word="brewer">brewer</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="do">do</span> <span word="so">so</span> <span word="after">after</span> <span word="Nogne">Nogne</span> <span word="O">O</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Norway">Norway</span>. <span word="Many">Many</span> <span word="bars">bars</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="already">already</span> <span word="using">using</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="cocktails">cocktails</span>.餐厅和零售商正开始把清酒包装成新的时尚饮品，就像在英国人气爆棚的手工酿制啤酒一样。苏格兰的酒厂<span word="Arran">Arran</span>计划今年晚些时候，商业化生产英国的第一款国产清酒。它是继挪威的纳酷欧(<span word="Nogne">Nogne</span> <span word="O">O</span>)之后，第二家采取这种做法的欧洲酒厂。许多酒吧已经开始使用清酒调制鸡尾酒。<span word="For">For</span> <span word="all">all</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="gambling">gambling</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="foreign">foreign</span> <span word="sales">sales</span>, <span word="brewers">brewers</span> <span word="say">say</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="one">one</span> <span word="ultimate">ultimate</span> <span word="aim">aim</span>: <span word="bringing">bringing</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="back">back</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Japan">Japan</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="well">well</span>.除了进军海外市场的赌博，酿酒商说，他们还有一个终极目标：让清酒在日本重新流行起来。“<span word="If">If</span> <span word="we">we</span>’<span word="re">re</span> <span word="able">able</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="tell">tell</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Japanese">Japanese</span>, ‘<span word="Look">Look</span> <span word="how">how</span> <span word="much">much</span> <span word="foreigners">foreigners</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="enjoying">enjoying</span> <span word="sake">sake</span>,’ <span word="that">that</span> <span word="would">would</span> <span word="give">give</span> <span word="them">them</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="opportunity">opportunity</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="rediscover">rediscover</span> <span word="sake">sake</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="revive">revive</span> <span word="demand">demand</span>,” <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Shichida">Shichida</span> <span word="said">said</span>. “<span word="We">We</span> <span word="don">don</span>’<span word="t">t</span> <span word="want">want</span> <span word="our">our</span> <span word="culture">culture</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="disappear">disappear</span>. <span word="We">We</span> <span word="really">really</span> <span word="don">don</span>’<span word="t">t</span>.”“如果我们能够告诉日本人，‘看，外国人多喜爱清酒啊，’就会让他们重新发现清酒的魅力，进而提振需求，”七田谦介说。“我们不想让自己的文化消失。真的不想。”</p>
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