感恩节后回顾一下鸡的历史
<p><span word="THIS">THIS</span> <span word="season">season</span> <span word="millions">millions</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Americans">Americans</span> <span word="will">will</span> <span word="celebrate">celebrate</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="turkey">turkey</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="table">table</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="turkey">turkey</span> <span word="is">is</span>, <span word="after">after</span> <span word="all">all</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="native">native</span> <span word="North">North</span> <span word="American">American</span> <span word="animal">animal</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="Benjamin">Benjamin</span> <span word="Franklin">Franklin</span> <span word="considered">considered</span> “<span word="a">a</span> <span word="much">much</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="respectable">respectable</span> <span word="bird">bird</span>” <span word="than">than</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="scavenging">scavenging</span> <span word="bald">bald</span> <span word="eagle">eagle</span>. <span word="But">But</span> <span word="while">while</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="eagle">eagle</span> <span word="landed">landed</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="country">country</span>’<span word="s">s</span> <span word="Great">Great</span> <span word="Seal">Seal</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="turkey">turkey</span> <span word="gets">gets</span> <span word="pride">pride</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="place">place</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="our">our</span> <span word="holiday">holiday</span> <span word="dinners">dinners</span>, <span word="neither">neither</span> <span word="bird">bird</span> <span word="can">can</span> <span word="claim">claim</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="changed">changed</span> <span word="American">American</span> <span word="culture">culture</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="lowly">lowly</span> <span word="avian">avian</span> <span word="cousin">cousin</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span>.这个季节，千百万美国人在庆祝节日时，餐桌上都摆着火鸡。毕竟，火鸡是北美本土的物种，本杰明·富兰克林(<span word="Benjamin">Benjamin</span> <span word="Franklin">Franklin</span>)认为它与翻找腐肉的白头鹰相比，是一种“远更值得尊重的鸟”。尽管白头鹰登上了美国的国徽，火鸡也骄傲地成为节日餐桌上举国同享的美味，但这两种鸟对美国文化产生的影响，都比不上它们身份低微的表亲——家鸡。</p>英国殖民者在1607年抵达詹姆斯敦的时候，带来了一群鸡。鸡帮助处境艰难的殖民地度过了最初几个凛冽的寒冬。13年后的“五月花号”(<span word="Mayflower">Mayflower</span>)上也带了鸡。不过，由于火鸡、鹅、鸽、鸭及其他更美味的本地禽类琳琅满目，鸡这种旧大陆家禽变得不再那么受人关注。<span word="This">This</span> <span word="proved">proved</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="boon">boon</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="enslaved">enslaved</span> <span word="Africans">Africans</span>. <span word="Fearful">Fearful</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="human">human</span> <span word="chattel">chattel</span> <span word="could">could</span> <span word="buy">buy</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="freedom">freedom</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="profits">profits</span> <span word="made">made</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="selling">selling</span> <span word="animals">animals</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Virginia">Virginia</span> <span word="General">General</span> <span word="Assembly">Assembly</span> <span word="in">in</span> 1692 <span word="made">made</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="illegal">illegal</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="slaves">slaves</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="own">own</span> <span word="horses">horses</span>, <span word="cattle">cattle</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="pigs">pigs</span>. <span word="Poultry">Poultry</span>, <span word="though">though</span>, <span word="wasn">wasn</span>’<span word="t">t</span> <span word="considered">considered</span> <span word="worth">worth</span> <span word="mentioning">mentioning</span>.不过，这对从非洲贩运来的奴隶倒是个好消息。由于担心作为私产的黑奴通过贩卖动物来赚钱赎身，弗吉尼亚议会(<span word="Virginia">Virginia</span> <span word="General">General</span> <span word="Assembly">Assembly</span>)在1692年颁布法令，禁止黑奴拥有马、牛、猪。不过，他们认为家禽不值一提。<span word="This">This</span> <span word="loophole">loophole</span> <span word="offered">offered</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="opportunity">opportunity</span>. <span word="Most">Most</span> <span word="slaves">slaves</span> <span word="came">came</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="West">West</span> <span word="Africa">Africa</span>, <span word="where">where</span> <span word="raising">raising</span> <span word="chickens">chickens</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="long">long</span> <span word="history">history</span>. <span word="Soon">Soon</span>, <span word="African">African</span>-<span word="Americans">Americans</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="colonial">colonial</span> <span word="South">South</span> — <span word="both">both</span> <span word="enslaved">enslaved</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="free">free</span> — <span word="emerged">emerged</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="the">the</span> “<span word="general">general</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="merchants">merchants</span>,” <span word="wrote">wrote</span> <span word="one">one</span> <span word="white">white</span> <span word="planter">planter</span>. <span word="At">At</span> <span word="George">George</span> <span word="Washington">Washington</span>’<span word="s">s</span> <span word="home">home</span>, <span word="Mount">Mount</span> <span word="Vernon">Vernon</span>, <span word="slaves">slaves</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="forbidden">forbidden</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="raise">raise</span> <span word="ducks">ducks</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="geese">geese</span>, <span word="making">making</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> “<span word="the">the</span> <span word="only">only</span> <span word="pleasure">pleasure</span> <span word="allowed">allowed</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="Negroes">Negroes</span>,” <span word="one">one</span> <span word="visitor">visitor</span> <span word="noted">noted</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="pleasure">pleasure</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="just">just</span> <span word="culinary">culinary</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="financial">financial</span>: <span word="In">In</span> 1775, <span word="Thomas">Thomas</span> <span word="Jefferson">Jefferson</span> <span word="paid">paid</span> <span word="two">two</span> <span word="silver">silver</span> <span word="Spanish">Spanish</span> <span word="bits">bits</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="slaves">slaves</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="exchange">exchange</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="three">three</span> <span word="chickens">chickens</span>. <span word="Such">Such</span> <span word="sales">sales</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="common">common</span>.这个法律漏洞提供了一个机会。许多黑奴来自非洲西部，在那里养鸡有很长的历史。很快，如一位白人种植园主所写到的，南方殖民地的非裔美国人，包括奴隶和自由人，就成了“常见的鸡贩”。在乔治·华盛顿(<span word="George">George</span> <span word="Washington">Washington</span>)的家弗农山庄(<span word="Mount">Mount</span> <span word="Vernon">Vernon</span>)，奴隶们被禁止养鸭子或鹅，一位来访者写道，于是鸡就成了“黑人获准拥有的唯一乐趣”。这种乐趣不仅涉及口腹，也涉及金钱。在1775年，托马斯·杰斐逊(<span word="Thomas">Thomas</span> <span word="Jefferson">Jefferson</span>)花了两个西班牙雷亚尔，从黑奴手中买来了三只鸡。这样的交易颇为普遍。<span word="Black">Black</span> <span word="cooks">cooks</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="position">position</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="influence">influence</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="masters">masters</span>’ <span word="choice">choice</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="dishes">dishes</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="naturally">naturally</span> <span word="favored">favored</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="meat">meat</span> <span word="raised">raised</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="friends">friends</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="relatives">relatives</span>. <span word="One">One</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="West">West</span> <span word="African">African</span> <span word="specialties">specialties</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="caught">caught</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="among">among</span> <span word="white">white</span> <span word="people">people</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="pieces">pieces</span> <span word="fried">fried</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="oil">oil</span> — <span word="the">the</span> <span word="meal">meal</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="now">now</span>, <span word="around">around</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="world">world</span>, <span word="is">is</span> <span word="considered">considered</span> <span word="quintessentially">quintessentially</span> <span word="American">American</span>.黑人厨师可以影响主人对菜肴的选择，而他们自然更喜欢朋友和亲戚养殖的禽肉。油炸鸡块这道西非特色菜，就这样在白人当中受到了欢迎。而现在，这种吃法在全世界都被认为是典型的美国菜。<span word="Slaves">Slaves</span> <span word="laid">laid</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="foundation">foundation</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="American">American</span> <span word="appetite">appetite</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="forced">forced</span> <span word="opening">opening</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="China">China</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="West">West</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> 1840<span word="s">s</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="made">made</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="modern">modern</span> <span word="bird">bird</span> <span word="possible">possible</span>. <span word="American">American</span> <span word="ships">ships</span> <span word="brought">brought</span> <span word="specimens">specimens</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Asian">Asian</span> <span word="chickens">chickens</span> <span word="never">never</span> <span word="seen">seen</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="America">America</span>. <span word="Breeders">Breeders</span> <span word="crossed">crossed</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="large">large</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="colorful">colorful</span> <span word="exotics">exotics</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="smaller">smaller</span> <span word="but">but</span> <span word="hardier">hardier</span> <span word="Western">Western</span> <span word="counterparts">counterparts</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="produce">produce</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="bird">bird</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="could">could</span> <span word="lay">lay</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="eggs">eggs</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="provide">provide</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="meat">meat</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="results">results</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="famous">famous</span> <span word="varieties">varieties</span>, <span word="like">like</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Plymouth">Plymouth</span> <span word="Rock">Rock</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Rhode">Rhode</span> <span word="Island">Island</span> <span word="Red">Red</span>, <span word="that">that</span> <span word="appeared">appeared</span> <span word="just">just</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="nation">nation</span> <span word="began">began</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="industrialize">industrialize</span>.黑奴为美国人热爱鸡肉的胃口奠定了基础，不过现代家鸡的问世，却要归结于1840年以后中国迫于西方压力而开关通商。由此，美国舰船带回了其本土前所未见的亚洲鸡。人们又将这些体格较大、色彩斑斓的鸡，与体格较小但适应力更强的西方鸡杂交，进而培育出了下蛋更多、产肉也更多的鸡种。其结果就是，在美国即将开始工业化时，普利茅斯石鸡(<span word="Plymouth">Plymouth</span> <span word="Rock">Rock</span>)和罗德岛红鸡(<span word="Rhode">Rhode</span> <span word="Island">Island</span> <span word="Red">Red</span>)这样的著名品种问世了。<span word="Still">Still</span>, <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="rearing">rearing</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="United">United</span> <span word="States">States</span> <span word="remained">remained</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="small">small</span>-<span word="scale">scale</span> <span word="family">family</span> <span word="business">business</span>; <span word="American">American</span> <span word="meat">meat</span>-<span word="eating">eating</span> <span word="tended">tended</span> <span word="toward">toward</span> <span word="pork">pork</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="beef">beef</span>, <span word="with">with</span> <span word="chickens">chickens</span> <span word="used">used</span> <span word="mostly">mostly</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="eggs">eggs</span>.不过，养鸡当时在美国仍然是一种小规模的家庭生意。美国人食肉的习惯也倾向于猪肉和牛肉，养鸡主要是为了下蛋。<span word="That">That</span> <span word="began">began</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="change">change</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="arrival">arrival</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="millions">millions</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Eastern">Eastern</span> <span word="European">European</span> <span word="Jews">Jews</span>, <span word="who">who</span> <span word="relied">relied</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="meat">meat</span> <span word="source">source</span>. <span word="By">By</span> 1900, <span word="New">New</span> <span word="York">York</span> <span word="City">City</span> <span word="boasted">boasted</span> 1,500 <span word="kosher">kosher</span> <span word="butcher">butcher</span> <span word="shops">shops</span>, <span word="stocked">stocked</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="train">train</span> <span word="cars">cars</span> <span word="filled">filled</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="live">live</span> <span word="chickens">chickens</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="arrived">arrived</span> <span word="mainly">mainly</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="farms">farms</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Midwest">Midwest</span>, <span word="where">where</span> <span word="rural">rural</span> <span word="women">women</span>, <span word="who">who</span> <span word="ran">ran</span> <span word="much">much</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="poultry">poultry</span> <span word="business">business</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="time">time</span>, <span word="took">took</span> <span word="advantage">advantage</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="growing">growing</span> <span word="demand">demand</span>.随着数百万东欧犹太人的到来，这一点也开始发生转变，他们依赖鸡这种肉质来源。到1900年，纽约市有多达1500家犹太洁食(<span word="kosher">kosher</span>)屠宰铺，出售的肉食主要来自中西部的农场出产，通过火车运来的活鸡。当时养殖禽类的生意主要由农村妇女经营，她们抓住时机回应了扩大的需求。<span word="Their">Their</span> <span word="market">market</span> <span word="soon">soon</span> <span word="extended">extended</span> <span word="beyond">beyond</span> <span word="immigrant">immigrant</span> <span word="Jews">Jews</span>. <span word="Millions">Millions</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="people">people</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="leaving">leaving</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="Midwestern">Midwestern</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Southern">Southern</span> <span word="farms">farms</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="factory">factory</span> <span word="jobs">jobs</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="expanding">expanding</span> <span word="cities">cities</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="North">North</span>. <span word="Finding">Finding</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="reliable">reliable</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="cheap">cheap</span> <span word="source">source</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="protein">protein</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="critical">critical</span>. <span word="Pork">Pork</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="beef">beef</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="expensive">expensive</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="urban">urban</span> <span word="shoppers">shoppers</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="enough">enough</span> <span word="eggs">eggs</span> <span word="produced">produced</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="United">United</span> <span word="States">States</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="satisfy">satisfy</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="appetites">appetites</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="business">business</span> <span word="started">started</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="take">take</span> <span word="off">off</span>.市场很快就拓展到了犹太移民社区之外。千百万人离开美国中西部和南部的农场，到不断扩张的北部城市寻找工厂的工作。要找到可靠廉价的蛋白质来源至关重要。猪肉和牛肉对城市里的消费者来说太昂贵了，而且美国出产的蛋也不足以满足美国人的胃口。于是养鸡产业开始飞速发展。<span word="World">World</span> <span word="War">War</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="gave">gave</span> <span word="chickens">chickens</span> <span word="another">another</span> <span word="boost">boost</span>, <span word="when">when</span> <span word="beef">beef</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="pork">pork</span> <span word="stocks">stocks</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="diverted">diverted</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="troops">troops</span>. <span word="Then">Then</span>, <span word="in">in</span> 1923, <span word="an">an</span> <span word="entrepreneurial">entrepreneurial</span> <span word="Delaware">Delaware</span> <span word="woman">woman</span> <span word="named">named</span> <span word="Celia">Celia</span> <span word="Steele">Steele</span> <span word="began">began</span> <span word="sending">sending</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="first">first</span> <span word="broilers">broilers</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="New">New</span> <span word="York">York</span>, <span word="birthing">birthing</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="multibillion">multibillion</span>-<span word="dollar">dollar</span> <span word="industry">industry</span>. <span word="For">For</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="first">first</span> <span word="time">time</span>, <span word="chickens">chickens</span> <span word="began">began</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="sold">sold</span> <span word="solely">solely</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="meat">meat</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="mass">mass</span> <span word="scale">scale</span>.第一次世界大战也给养鸡业带来了另一个助推，那时牛肉和猪肉储备转到了军队手中。1923年，特拉华州一位名叫西莉亚·斯蒂尔(<span word="Celia">Celia</span> <span word="Steele">Steele</span>)的女企业家，开始向纽约供应首批批量饲养的肉鸡，进而催生了一个价值数十亿美元的产业。这是鸡第一次因为它的肉，而被大规模出售。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="rise">rise</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="continued">continued</span> <span word="through">through</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Great">Great</span> <span word="Depression">Depression</span>, <span word="when">when</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="farming">farming</span> <span word="helped">helped</span> <span word="many">many</span> <span word="farmers">farmers</span> <span word="get">get</span> <span word="by">by</span>. <span word="Henry">Henry</span> <span word="A">A</span>. <span word="Wallace">Wallace</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="sometime">sometime</span> <span word="vegetarian">vegetarian</span> <span word="pacifist">pacifist</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="Iowa">Iowa</span> <span word="who">who</span> <span word="also">also</span> <span word="served">served</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="Franklin">Franklin</span> <span word="D">D</span>. <span word="Roosevelt">Roosevelt</span>’<span word="s">s</span> <span word="agriculture">agriculture</span> <span word="secretary">secretary</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="vice">vice</span> <span word="president">president</span>, <span word="argued">argued</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="savior">savior</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="poverty">poverty</span>-<span word="stricken">stricken</span> <span word="rural">rural</span> <span word="Americans">Americans</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="company">company</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="helped">helped</span> <span word="found">found</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> 1920<span word="s">s</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="now">now</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="world">world</span>’<span word="s">s</span> <span word="largest">largest</span> <span word="single">single</span> <span word="producer">producer</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="egg">egg</span>-<span word="laying">laying</span> <span word="hens">hens</span>. <span word="Finally">Finally</span>, <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> 1950<span word="s">s</span>, <span word="engineers">engineers</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="scientists">scientists</span> <span word="created">created</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="bird">bird</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="could">could</span> <span word="grow">grow</span> <span word="quickly">quickly</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="minimal">minimal</span> <span word="feed">feed</span> — <span word="and">and</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="know">know</span> <span word="today">today</span> <span word="emerged">emerged</span>.鸡的兴起一直贯穿了大萧条(<span word="Great">Great</span> <span word="Depression">Depression</span>)时期，那时的养鸡产业帮助许多农户度过困境。富兰克林·<span word="D">D</span>·罗斯福(<span word="Franklin">Franklin</span> <span word="D">D</span>. <span word="Roosevelt">Roosevelt</span>)麾下的农业部长和副总统亨利·<span word="A">A</span>·华莱士(<span word="Henry">Henry</span> <span word="A">A</span>. <span word="Wallace">Wallace</span>)一度食素，也是一名和平主义者。来自艾奥瓦州的华莱士认为，对于陷入贫困的美国农村，鸡是一个救星。他在1920年代帮助建立的公司，现在是世界上最大的蛋鸡饲养企业。最后在1950年代，工程师和科学家培育出了一种耗费饲料很少但增重很快的鸡。今天我们所知的鸡就是这时产生的。<span word="Today">Today</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="cheap">cheap</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="become">become</span> <span word="America">America</span>’<span word="s">s</span> <span word="favorite">favorite</span> <span word="meat">meat</span>. <span word="In">In</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="land">land</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="hamburger">hamburger</span>, <span word="we">we</span> <span word="eat">eat</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="beef">beef</span>. <span word="And">And</span> <span word="while">while</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="enjoy">enjoy</span> <span word="turkey">turkey</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="Thanksgiving">Thanksgiving</span>, <span word="over">over</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="course">course</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="year">year</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="will">will</span> <span word="consume">consume</span> <span word="five">five</span> <span word="times">times</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="much">much</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span>.今天的鸡肉价格低廉，也已经成为美国人最喜欢的肉类。在这个汉堡包的国度，我们吃的鸡肉却比牛肉还多。尽管我们会在感恩节时享用火鸡，但全年消费鸡肉的总量却是火鸡的五倍。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="bonanza">bonanza</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="cheap">cheap</span> <span word="meat">meat</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="eggs">eggs</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="been">been</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="boon">boon</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="many">many</span> <span word="ways">ways</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="come">come</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="largely">largely</span> <span word="hidden">hidden</span> <span word="cost">cost</span>. <span word="Billions">Billions</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="chickens">chickens</span>, <span word="both">both</span> <span word="layers">layers</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="broilers">broilers</span>, <span word="live">live</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="vast">vast</span> <span word="warehouses">warehouses</span> <span word="locked">locked</span> <span word="behind">behind</span> <span word="fences">fences</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="unprotected">unprotected</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="federal">federal</span> <span word="regulations">regulations</span>, <span word="which">which</span> <span word="don">don</span>’<span word="t">t</span> <span word="consider">consider</span> <span word="poultry">poultry</span> <span word="raised">raised</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="animals">animals</span>. <span word="Then">Then</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="low">low</span>-<span word="paid">paid</span> <span word="workers">workers</span> <span word="who">who</span> <span word="labor">labor</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="cold">cold</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="dark">dark</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="processing">processing</span> <span word="plants">plants</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="high">high</span> <span word="rates">rates</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="injury">injury</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="environmental">environmental</span> <span word="degradation">degradation</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="sullies">sullies</span> <span word="our">our</span> <span word="waterways">waterways</span>. <span word="And">And</span> <span word="today">today</span>’<span word="s">s</span> <span word="industrial">industrial</span> <span word="bird">bird</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="relatively">relatively</span> <span word="tasteless">tasteless</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="must">must</span> <span word="relentlessly">relentlessly</span> <span word="flavor">flavor</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="sauces">sauces</span>, <span word="marinades">marinades</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="rubs">rubs</span>.廉价肉蛋的丰富供应，在很多方面都是好事，但其中也存在常常不为人知的成本。数十亿只肉鸡和蛋鸡都饲养在巨大的仓库里，锁在笼子里，不受联邦法规的保障，因为联邦法规不把食用禽类视为动物。此外，还有薪水微薄的工人，他们在冰冷阴暗的加工厂里劳作，工伤率极高，相应的环境影响也污染了我们的河道。今天工业饲养的肉禽比较寡淡无味，所以我们必须要极力腌渍、蘸酱汁、撒调料。<span word="So">So</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="celebrate">celebrate</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="give">give</span> <span word="thanks">thanks</span> <span word="this">this</span> <span word="season">season</span>, <span word="take">take</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="moment">moment</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="consider">consider</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="lowly">lowly</span> <span word="chicken">chicken</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="how">how</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="story">story</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="our">our</span> <span word="country">country</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="so">so</span> <span word="deeply">deeply</span> <span word="entwined">entwined</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="bird">bird</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="gets">gets</span> <span word="little">little</span> <span word="respect">respect</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="creature">creature</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="given">given</span> <span word="us">us</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="know">know</span>.所以，我们在这个时节表达感谢时，请花些时间想一想身份低微的鸡，也考虑一下鸡肉的历史与这个国家的历史联系多么紧密。这种极少受人尊重的家禽，为我们做出了很多贡献，可我们却知之甚少。</p>
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