美国的第一位大麻评论家
<p><span word="Jake">Jake</span> <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="seated">seated</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="yellow">yellow</span> <span word="suede">suede</span> <span word="chair">chair</span>, <span word="carefully">carefully</span> <span word="rotating">rotating</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="marijuana">marijuana</span> <span word="bud">bud</span> <span word="between">between</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="fingers">fingers</span>. <span word="m">m</span> <span word="looking">looking</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="bugs">bugs</span>, <span word="mildew">mildew</span>, <span word="things">things</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="wouldnt">wouldnt</span> <span word="want">want</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="ingest">ingest</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>, <span word="leaning">leaning</span> <span word="forward">forward</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="hold">hold</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="nickel">nickel</span>-<span word="size">size</span> <span word="flower">flower</span> <span word="up">up</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="light">light</span>. <span word="He">He</span> <span word="paused">paused</span>, <span word="then">then</span> <span word="took">took</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="sip">sip</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="water">water</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="cup">cup</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="Miley">Miley</span> <span word="Cyrus">Cyrus</span> <span word="hologram">hologram</span> <span word="down">down</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="side">side</span>. <span word="This">This</span> <span word="looks">looks</span> <span word="clean">clean</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="concluded">concluded</span>.丹佛——杰克·布朗尼(<span word="Jake">Jake</span> <span word="Browne">Browne</span>)坐在一张黄色山羊皮椅子上,手指悉心拨弄一支大麻花蕾。“我在找虫子、霉斑之类我不想摄入的东西,”他身体前倾,把手上硬币大小的花朵迎向光线,顿了一下,从面前印着麦莉·塞勒斯(<span word="Miley">Miley</span> <span word="Cyrus">Cyrus</span>)全息图的杯子里喝了口水。“它挺干净的,”他总结道。</p>31岁的布朗恩把这支花蕾举到鼻边,吸了口气。然后打开电脑。“略带柠檬甜香,”他输入,之后把这支大麻塞进一个小小玻璃烟斗。<span word="I">I</span> <span word="usually">usually</span> <span word="will">will</span> <span word="take">take</span> <span word="one">one</span>, <span word="maybe">maybe</span> <span word="two">two</span> <span word="hits">hits</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="fired">fired</span> <span word="up">up</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="bowl">bowl</span>. <span word="m">m</span> <span word="looking">looking</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="how">how</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="burns">burns</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="taste">taste</span>, <span word="if">if</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="flushed">flushed</span> <span word="well">well</span> — <span word="meaning">meaning</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="dont">dont</span> <span word="want">want</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="taste">taste</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="fertilizers">fertilizers</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="chemicals">chemicals</span>. <span word="He">He</span> <span word="exhaled">exhaled</span>, <span word="waited">waited</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="then">then</span> <span word="turned">turned</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="computer">computer</span> <span word="again">again</span>. <span word="Head">Head</span> <span word="high">high</span>. <span word="No">No</span> <span word="initial">initial</span> <span word="body">body</span> <span word="effect">effect</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="wrote">wrote</span>.“我一般吸一轮,或者两轮,”他点燃烟斗说。“我在观察它怎样燃烧,品味它的味道,它采摘得好不好——也就是说,你可不想尝到化肥或者化学制品的味道。”他吸了一口气,等了等,然后又转向电脑。“很上头。没有最初的身体效果,”他写道。<span word="This">This</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Brownes">Brownes</span> <span word="job">job</span> (<span word="or">or</span>, <span word="at">at</span> <span word="least">least</span>, <span word="one">one</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="jobs">jobs</span>). <span word="The">The</span> <span word="longtime">longtime</span> <span word="resident">resident</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Colorado">Colorado</span> — <span word="where">where</span> <span word="marijuana">marijuana</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="been">been</span> <span word="legal">legal</span> <span word="since">since</span> <span word="January">January</span> — <span word="is">is</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="comedian">comedian</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="producer">producer</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="founder">founder</span> (<span word="with">with</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="fianc">fianc</span>é<span word="e">e</span>) <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="mail">mail</span>-<span word="order">order</span> <span word="subscription">subscription</span> <span word="box">box</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="hemp">hemp</span> <span word="products">products</span>.这就是布朗的工作(或者说至少是他的部分工作)。他常住科罗拉多州——自一月开始,大麻在这个州实现了合法化——还是喜剧演员兼制作人,同未婚妻一起合开了一家邮购大麻制品公司。<span word="He">He</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="also">also</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="first">first</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="critic">critic</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="The">The</span> <span word="Denver">Denver</span> <span word="Post">Post</span>, <span word="Colorados">Colorados</span> <span word="oldest">oldest</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="largest">largest</span> <span word="daily">daily</span> <span word="newspaper">newspaper</span>. <span word="Which">Which</span> <span word="means">means</span> <span word="that">that</span>, <span word="every">every</span> <span word="week">week</span>, <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="takes">takes</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="city">city</span> <span word="bus">bus</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="home">home</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Denvers">Denvers</span> <span word="Highland">Highland</span> <span word="neighborhood">neighborhood</span>, <span word="crosses">crosses</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="street">street</span> <span word="called">called</span> <span word="Green">Green</span> <span word="Court">Court</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="lands">lands</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="one">one</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="citys">citys</span> <span word="downtown">downtown</span> <span word="marijuana">marijuana</span> <span word="dispensaries">dispensaries</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="choose">choose</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="product">product</span>. <span word="Yes">Yes</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="paid">paid</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="smoke">smoke</span> <span word="it">it</span> — <span word="and">and</span> <span word="then">then</span> <span word="write">write</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="high">high</span>.他也是《丹佛邮报》(<span word="The">The</span> <span word="Denver">Denver</span> <span word="Post">Post</span>)——科罗拉多州历史最悠久、发行量最大的日报——聘请的首位大麻评论家。也就是说,布朗每星期都要坐着大巴从自己位于丹佛高地的家中出发,穿过一条名叫绿色庭院的街道,来到市中心若干大麻药房中的某一个,挑选自己要鉴定的产品。是的,别人付钱给他吸大麻,然后他写文章,描述药物高潮的感觉。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="thing">thing</span> <span word="people">people</span> <span word="say">say</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="me">me</span> <span word="most">most</span> <span word="often">often</span> <span word="is">is</span>, ‘<span word="Dude">Dude</span>, <span word="you">you</span> <span word="must">must</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="best">best</span> <span word="job">job</span> <span word="ever">ever</span>, <span word="said">said</span> <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span>, <span word="sitting">sitting</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="living">living</span> <span word="room">room</span>. <span word="Its">Its</span> <span word="either">either</span> <span word="that">that</span>, <span word="or">or</span>, <span word="if">if</span> <span word="theyre">theyre</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="out">out</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="state">state</span>, ‘<span word="Can">Can</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="send">send</span> <span word="me">me</span> <span word="pot">pot</span>?“人们最常对我说的是,‘伙计,这可是天下最好的工作了,”布朗尼坐在自己的起居室里说。“根本不明白这回事的人就会说,‘你能给我点大麻吗?”<span word="The">The</span> <span word="Post">Post</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="two">two</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="critics">critics</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="roster">roster</span> <span word="since">since</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="created">created</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="spinoff">spinoff</span> <span word="site">site</span>, <span word="The">The</span> <span word="Cannabist">Cannabist</span>, <span word="in">in</span> <span word="December">December</span>. (<span word="The">The</span> <span word="newspaper">newspaper</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="searching">searching</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="third">third</span>, <span word="as">as</span> <span word="well">well</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="sex">sex</span> <span word="columnist">columnist</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="write">write</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="intimacy">intimacy</span>.) <span word="While">While</span> <span word="adding">adding</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="jobs">jobs</span> — <span word="particularly">particularly</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="mainstream">mainstream</span> <span word="newspaper">newspaper</span> — <span word="created">created</span> <span word="something">something</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="stir">stir</span>, <span word="Ricardo">Ricardo</span> <span word="Baca">Baca</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="newspapers">newspapers</span> <span word="newly">newly</span> <span word="appointed">appointed</span> <span word="cannabis">cannabis</span> <span word="editor">editor</span> (<span word="and">and</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="longtime">longtime</span> <span word="staff">staff</span> <span word="member">member</span>) <span word="said">said</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="simply">simply</span> <span word="made">made</span> <span word="journalistic">journalistic</span> <span word="sense">sense</span>. “<span word="We">We</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="restaurant">restaurant</span> <span word="critic">critic</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="wine">wine</span> <span word="reviewers">reviewers</span>,” <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>. “<span word="We">We</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="award">award</span>-<span word="winning">winning</span> <span word="craft">craft</span> <span word="beer">beer</span> <span word="blog">blog</span>. <span word="From">From</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="logic">logic</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="do">do</span> <span word="need">need</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="critic">critic</span> — <span word="and">and</span> <span word="maybe">maybe</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="few">few</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="them">them</span>.”《邮报》自从12月创办子网站“大麻使用者”(<span word="The">The</span> <span word="Cannabist">Cannabist</span>)后聘请了两名大麻评论家(该报正在寻找第三个,此外还在找专写大麻与亲密关系的性专栏作家)。引进这一职位引起了风波,特别是身为一家主流报纸。 里卡多·贝(<span word="Ricardo">Ricardo</span> <span word="Baca">Baca</span>) 是报纸新上任的大麻编辑(他是一位老员工),他说,这只是出于资讯意识。“我们报纸有餐馆评论家和品酒家,”他说,“我们还有一个获奖自酿啤酒博客。从这个逻辑上说,你确实需要一个大麻评论家,也许还需要好几个。”<span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Brownes">Brownes</span> <span word="path">path</span> <span word="into">into</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="role">role</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="unlikely">unlikely</span>. <span word="He">He</span> <span word="grew">grew</span> <span word="up">up</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Iowa">Iowa</span>, <span word="where">where</span>, <span word="after">after</span> <span word="high">high</span> <span word="school">school</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="tried">tried</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="hand">hand</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="male">male</span> <span word="model">model</span> (<span word="Ashton">Ashton</span> <span word="Kutcher">Kutcher</span>, <span word="another">another</span> <span word="former">former</span> <span word="model">model</span>, <span word="was">was</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="hometown">hometown</span>). <span word="When">When</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="didnt">didnt</span> <span word="work">work</span> <span word="out">out</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="moved">moved</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="Colorado">Colorado</span> (“<span word="I">I</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="just">just</span> <span word="read">read</span> ‘<span word="On">On</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Road">Road</span>, ” <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>) <span word="and">and</span> <span word="enrolled">enrolled</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="technical">technical</span> <span word="college">college</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="dropped">dropped</span> <span word="out">out</span>. <span word="For">For</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="next">next</span> <span word="few">few</span> <span word="years">years</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="waited">waited</span> <span word="tables">tables</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="worked">worked</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="bartender">bartender</span>.布朗尼走上这条路的过程很不可思议。他在爱荷华州长大,中学毕业后尝试做模特(做模特起家的阿什顿·库[<span word="Ashton">Ashton</span> <span word="Kutcher">Kutcher</span>]就来自他的家乡)。但他没有成功,于是就搬来科罗拉多(“我当时刚读完《在路上》[<span word="On">On</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Road">Road</span>],”他说),上了一所技术学院,但又退学了。接下来的几年他一直做侍者和酒保的工作。<span word="Pot">Pot</span> <span word="wasnt">wasnt</span> <span word="legal">legal</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="recreational">recreational</span> <span word="use">use</span> <span word="when">when</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="first">first</span> <span word="got">got</span> <span word="into">into</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="business">business</span>, <span word="helping">helping</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="friend">friend</span> <span word="who">who</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="opened">opened</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="medical">medical</span> <span word="dispensary">dispensary</span> <span word="keep">keep</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="books">books</span>. (<span word="They">They</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="been">been</span> <span word="organizing">organizing</span> <span word="files">files</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="first">first</span> <span word="name">name</span>, <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="said">said</span>, <span word="laughing">laughing</span>.) <span word="He">He</span> <span word="wasnt">wasnt</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="big">big</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="smoker">smoker</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="liked">liked</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="business">business</span> <span word="side">side</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="it">it</span>. <span word="He">He</span> <span word="became">became</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="companys">companys</span> <span word="marketing">marketing</span> <span word="director">director</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="general">general</span> <span word="manager">manager</span>, <span word="started">started</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="blog">blog</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="opened">opened</span> <span word="up">up</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="consulting">consulting</span> <span word="business">business</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="side">side</span>.他刚进入这个行业的时候是帮一个开大麻药店的朋友记账,当时娱乐用大麻还没有合法化(“他们得按人名来管理档案,”布朗笑着说)。他并不沉迷大麻,但是喜欢其中买卖的部分。他成了这家公司的市场总监和总经理,开了博客,还在药店旁边做大麻咨询的生意。<span word="He">He</span> <span word="saw">saw</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="ad">ad</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="critic">critic</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="Facebook">Facebook</span> (<span word="where">where</span> <span word="else">else</span>? <span word="he">he</span> <span word="joked">joked</span>) <span word="and">and</span> <span word="replied">replied</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="visual">visual</span> <span word="r">r</span>é<span word="sum">sum</span>é <span word="hed">hed</span> <span word="designed">designed</span> <span word="himself">himself</span> — <span word="complete">complete</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="giant">giant</span> <span word="photo">photo</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="piece">piece</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="bacon">bacon</span> (<span word="just">just</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="fun">fun</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>). <span word="But">But</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="wasnt">wasnt</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="swine">swine</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="sold">sold</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="editor">editor</span> (<span word="nor">nor</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="simply">simply</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="writing">writing</span>). <span word="He">He</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="authority">authority</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="weed">weed</span> <span word="already">already</span>, <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Baca">Baca</span> <span word="said">said</span>. “<span word="He">He</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="valuable">valuable</span> <span word="experience">experience</span> <span word="working">working</span> <span word="inside">inside</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="industry">industry</span>.后来他看到<span word="Facebook">Facebook</span>上征集大麻评论师的广告(“不然还会是哪儿?”他开玩笑)就递了一份自己设计的平面图像简历——包括一张印着一片培根的大照片(只是为了好玩,他说)。但打动了编辑的不是猪肉(也不仅仅是他的文笔)。“他已经是大麻的权威了,”贝萨说,“他拥有宝贵的业内经验。”<span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="also">also</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="biological">biological</span> <span word="gift">gift</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="sorts">sorts</span>: <span word="He">He</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="supertaster">supertaster</span>. <span word="That">That</span> <span word="is">is</span>, <span word="somebody">somebody</span> <span word="who">who</span> <span word="possesses">possesses</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="taste">taste</span> <span word="buds">buds</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="average">average</span> <span word="person">person</span> (<span word="at">at</span> <span word="least">least</span> <span word="according">according</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="online">online</span> <span word="survey">survey</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="took">took</span>).布朗尼还拥有一种生物学上的天赋:他的味觉特别丰富。也就是说,他比普通人更能品尝出大麻花蕾的滋味(至少他参加的一项网络调查是这么说的)。<span word="In">In</span> <span word="total">total</span> <span word="so">so</span> <span word="far">far</span>, <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="written">written</span> 27 <span word="reviews">reviews</span>. <span word="He">He</span> <span word="critiqued">critiqued</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="strain">strain</span> <span word="called">called</span> <span word="Jack">Jack</span> <span word="Flash">Flash</span> (<span word="it">it</span> <span word="practically">practically</span> <span word="jumped">jumped</span> <span word="through">through</span> <span word="my">my</span> <span word="monitor">monitor</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="into">into</span> <span word="my">my</span> <span word="pipe">pipe</span> 303 <span word="Kush">Kush</span> (<span word="almost">almost</span> <span word="overwhelming">overwhelming</span>”); <span word="and">and</span> <span word="wrote">wrote</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="Willie">Willie</span> <span word="Nelson">Nelson</span>-<span word="themed">themed</span> <span word="varietal">varietal</span> <span word="called">called</span> <span word="Red">Red</span> <span word="Headed">Headed</span> <span word="Stranger">Stranger</span> <span word="No">No</span>. 14 (<span word="a">a</span> <span word="little">little</span> <span word="less">less</span> <span word="mentally">mentally</span> <span word="racy">racy</span>” <span word="but">but</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="strong">strong</span> <span word="overall">overall</span> <span word="high">high</span>”). <span word="And">And</span> <span word="while">while</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="taste">taste</span> <span word="buds">buds</span> <span word="play">play</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="role">role</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="critiques">critiques</span>, <span word="certainly">certainly</span>, <span word="there">there</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="it">it</span>.迄今布朗尼已经写了27篇评论。他评价过名叫“杰克闪电”的大麻(“它在我的监测仪上跳跃,一直跳进我的烟斗”);“303 库什”(“简直势不可挡”);还有一款以威利·尼尔森(<span word="Willie">Willie</span> <span word="Nelson">Nelson</span>)为主题的品种,名叫“红发陌生人14号”(“精神上的力度不够”,但是有“综合性的强烈高潮”)。不仅如此,品尝大麻花蕾在他的评论中自然也有一席之地。<span word="I">I</span> <span word="think">think</span> <span word="people">people</span> <span word="underestimate">underestimate</span> <span word="cannabis">cannabis</span>, <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="said">said</span>. <span word="You">You</span> <span word="wouldnt">wouldnt</span> <span word="walk">walk</span> <span word="into">into</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="restaurant">restaurant</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="say">say</span>, ‘<span word="Ill">Ill</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="wine">wine</span>. <span word="So">So</span> <span word="why">why</span> <span word="would">would</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="assume">assume</span> <span word="people">people</span> <span word="would">would</span> <span word="do">do</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="cannabis">cannabis</span>? <span word="In">In</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="same">same</span> <span word="way">way</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="pinot">pinot</span> <span word="grigio">grigio</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="pinot">pinot</span> <span word="noir">noir</span> <span word="may">may</span> <span word="sound">sound</span> <span word="similar">similar</span> <span word="but">but</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="completely">completely</span> <span word="different">different</span>, <span word="names">names</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="Lemon">Lemon</span> <span word="OG">OG</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Lemon">Lemon</span> <span word="Skunk">Skunk</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="very">very</span> <span word="different">different</span> <span word="strains">strains</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="very">very</span> <span word="different">different</span> <span word="flavor">flavor</span> <span word="components">components</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="completely">completely</span> <span word="different">different</span> <span word="highs">highs</span>.“我觉得人们低估了大麻,”布朗尼说。“你不会走进饭馆说,‘我要喝葡萄酒。所以为什么大麻就可以这样随便呢?就像灰皮诺葡萄酒和黑皮诺葡萄酒听上去差不多,尝起来却大不一样,‘柠檬<span word="OG">OG</span>和‘柠檬斯坎克也是非常不同的品种,有非常不同的气味成分,带给人非常不同的高潮体验。”<span word="A">A</span> <span word="typical">typical</span> <span word="day">day</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="likely">likely</span> <span word="starts">starts</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="testing">testing</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="few">few</span> <span word="products">products</span>. <span word="On">On</span> <span word="this">this</span> <span word="particular">particular</span> <span word="day">day</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="spent">spent</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="morning">morning</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="three">three</span> <span word="dispensaries">dispensaries</span>: <span word="LoDo">LoDo</span> <span word="Wellness">Wellness</span>, <span word="on">on</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="street">street</span> <span word="called">called</span> <span word="Wazee">Wazee</span>; <span word="Euflora">Euflora</span>, <span word="also">also</span> <span word="known">known</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Apple">Apple</span> <span word="store">store</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="weed">weed</span> (<span word="though">though</span>, <span word="as">as</span> <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="pointed">pointed</span> <span word="out">out</span>, <span word="it">it</span> <span word="actually">actually</span> <span word="looked">looked</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="RadioShack">RadioShack</span>); <span word="and">and</span> <span word="finally">finally</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="shop">shop</span> <span word="called">called</span> <span word="Good">Good</span> <span word="Chemistry">Chemistry</span>.布朗尼典型的一天以检测集中大麻产品开始。比如今天,他整个上午都在逛三个大麻店:<span word="LoDo">LoDo</span> <span word="Wellness">Wellness</span>(街头俗称“<span word="Wazze">Wazze</span>”);<span word="Euflora">Euflora</span>,别名“大麻的苹果店”(但布朗尼指出,它其实更像<span word="RadioShack">RadioShack</span>店);还有一家名叫“好化学”的店。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="key">key</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="criticism">criticism</span>, <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="said">said</span>, <span word="is">is</span> <span word="knowing">knowing</span> <span word="your">your</span> <span word="audience">audience</span>. <span word="While">While</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="tries">tries</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="keep">keep</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="language">language</span> <span word="basic">basic</span> <span word="enough">enough</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="nonsmoker">nonsmoker</span> <span word="could">could</span> <span word="understand">understand</span> <span word="it">it</span> (<span word="I">I</span> <span word="think">think</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="needs">needs</span> <span word="smart">smart</span> <span word="people">people</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="ambassadors">ambassadors</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="masses">masses</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>), <span word="he">he</span> <span word="doesnt">doesnt</span> <span word="want">want</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="condescending">condescending</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="those">those</span> <span word="who">who</span> <span word="do">do</span>. <span word="I">I</span> <span word="never">never</span> <span word="want">want</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="pretentious">pretentious</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="critic">critic</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>.布朗尼说,大麻评论的关键就在于了解你的读者。他试着让自己的语言尽量基本,以便不吸大麻的人也能看懂(“我觉得需要让聪明人充当使者,把大麻推广给大众,”他说),他也不想对那些吸大麻的人摆出居高临下的姿态。“我绝不会做那种装腔作势的大麻评论家,”他说。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="reviews">reviews</span> <span word="themselves">themselves</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="certain">certain</span> <span word="formula">formula</span>. <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="begins">begins</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="physical">physical</span> <span word="description">description</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="product">product</span> (<span word="is">is</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="moist">moist</span>, <span word="with">with</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="THC">THC</span> <span word="visible">visible</span>, <span word="or">or</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="drier">drier</span>, <span word="less">less</span> <span word="tightly">tightly</span> <span word="packed">packed</span> <span word="bud">bud</span>?) <span word="as">as</span> <span word="well">well</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="smell">smell</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="taste">taste</span> (<span word="rubber">rubber</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="pepper">pepper</span> <span word="dominate">dominate</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="jar">jar</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="bunch">bunch</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="green">green</span> <span word="army">army</span> <span word="men">men</span> <span word="relegated">relegated</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="miniature">miniature</span> <span word="mess">mess</span> <span word="hall">hall</span> <span word="duty">duty</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="wrote">wrote</span> <span word="recently">recently</span>, <span word="of">of</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="unfortunately">unfortunately</span> <span word="titled">titled</span> <span word="strain">strain</span> <span word="called">called</span> <span word="Alien">Alien</span> <span word="Napalm">Napalm</span>).他的评论有一定套路。先是以对产品的外观描述开始(是否潮湿、四氢大麻酚是否可见、是否经过干燥、花蕾不够紧密?),此外还有气味和味道(“罐子里满是橡胶和胡椒的味道,就像一群军人被罚去清扫食堂,”最近他的一篇文中写道,他所评价的这种大麻有个“不幸的名字”——“异星凝固汽油弹”)。<span word="He">He</span> <span word="will">will</span> <span word="find">find</span> <span word="out">out</span> <span word="where">where</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="product">product</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="harvested">harvested</span> (<span word="in">in</span> <span word="Napalms">Napalms</span> <span word="case">case</span>, <span word="a">a</span> <span word="veganic">veganic</span> <span word="grow">grow</span>) <span word="and">and</span> <span word="tell">tell</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="reader">reader</span> <span word="where">where</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="bought">bought</span> <span word="it">it</span> (<span word="because">because</span> <span word="each">each</span> <span word="manufacturer">manufacturer</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="own">own</span> <span word="wacky">wacky</span> <span word="strain">strain</span> <span word="names">names</span>). <span word="Sometimes">Sometimes</span> <span word="hell">hell</span> <span word="describe">describe</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="sound">sound</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="bud">bud</span> <span word="firing">firing</span> <span word="up">up</span> (<span word="snap">snap</span>, <span word="crackle">crackle</span>, <span word="pop">pop</span>”) <span word="or">or</span> <span word="what">what</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="how">how</span> <span word="much">much</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="ate">ate</span> <span word="after">after</span> (<span word="apple">apple</span> <span word="juice">juice</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="ants">ants</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="log">log</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>, <span word="referring">referring</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="childrens">childrens</span> <span word="snack">snack</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="raisins">raisins</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="peanut">peanut</span> <span word="butter">butter</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="top">top</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="celery">celery</span>).他会查出产品的产地(比如“汽油弹”就是“素食者种的”),告诉读者他是在什么地方买的(因为所有制造商都有自己专属的奇怪名字)。有时候他会描述大麻燃烧的声音(“啪、喀喇、砰”)等信息,还有吸过大麻后他吃了多少东西(“苹果汁和一窝蚂蚁”他指的其实是一种儿童点心,是葡萄干和花生酱蘸芹菜)。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="most">most</span> <span word="important">important</span> <span word="element">element</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="being">being</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="critic">critic</span>, <span word="though">though</span>, <span word="is">is</span> <span word="one">one</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="traditional">traditional</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="criticism">criticism</span> <span word="may">may</span> <span word="lack">lack</span> (<span word="at">at</span> <span word="least">least</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="this">this</span> <span word="much">much</span> <span word="detail">detail</span>): <span word="how">how</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="product">product</span> <span word="makes">makes</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="feel">feel</span>. <span word="Seated">Seated</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="living">living</span> <span word="room">room</span> <span word="testing">testing</span> <span word="out">out</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Lemon">Lemon</span> <span word="Kush">Kush</span>, <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="kept">kept</span> <span word="detailed">detailed</span> <span word="notes">notes</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="moment">moment</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="ingested">ingested</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="observed">observed</span> <span word="how">how</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="moved">moved</span> <span word="through">through</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="body">body</span>. (<span word="When">When</span> <span word="writing">writing</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="Jack">Jack</span> <span word="Flash">Flash</span>, <span word="another">another</span> <span word="strain">strain</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="once">once</span> <span word="noted">noted</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="always">always</span> <span word="gets">gets</span> <span word="me">me</span> <span word="straight">straight</span> <span word="between">between</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="temples">temples</span>.) <span word="With">With</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Kush">Kush</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="observed">observed</span> <span word="whether">whether</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="relieved">relieved</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="headache">headache</span> (<span word="a">a</span> <span word="little">little</span>) <span word="and">and</span> <span word="tracked">tracked</span>, <span word="in">in</span> <span word="painstaking">painstaking</span> <span word="detail">detail</span>, <span word="how">how</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="feeling">feeling</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="high">high</span> <span word="evolved">evolved</span>.不过,大麻评论中最重要的东西是传统食物评论里所没有的(至少在大麻评论里有更多细节):这种东西带给你什么样的感受。布朗尼坐在自己的起居室里测试“柠檬库什”,一边使用一边写下详细的笔记,观察它是如何在自己身体里游走。在写“杰克闪电”的时候,他曾经写道,“它让我太阳穴之间绷得紧紧的”。至于“柠檬库什”,他观察到这种大麻缓解了他的头疼(只有一点),并且非常努力地追溯着细节,记下高潮不断进化的体验是怎样的。布朗尼在测试完大麻后,在家中后院抽烟休息。能在这个历史时刻中扮演一个角色,我感到非常幸运,我觉得这件事无与伦比,”他说。<span word="In">In</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="accounting">accounting</span>, <span word="Lemon">Lemon</span> <span word="Kush">Kush</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="relatively">relatively</span> <span word="mellow">mellow</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="few">few</span> <span word="months">months</span> <span word="back">back</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="different">different</span> <span word="experience">experience</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="different">different</span> <span word="strain">strain</span>. <span word="After">After</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="second">second</span> <span word="hit">hit</span>, <span word="I">I</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="floored">floored</span>. <span word="No">No</span> <span word="thoughts">thoughts</span>, <span word="just">just</span> <span word="pure">pure</span> <span word="experience">experience</span>. <span word="An">An</span> <span word="instant">instant</span> <span word="flow">flow</span> <span word="state">state</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="wrote">wrote</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Red">Red</span> <span word="Headed">Headed</span> <span word="Stranger">Stranger</span> <span word="No">No</span>. 14. <span word="Ten">Ten</span> <span word="minutes">minutes</span> <span word="later">later</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="observed">observed</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="sudden">sudden</span> <span word="shift">shift</span>: <span word="m">m</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="human">human</span> <span word="coffee">coffee</span>, <span word="spewing">spewing</span> <span word="words">words</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="dark">dark</span>-<span word="roasted">roasted</span> <span word="drip">drip</span>.根据他的描述,“柠檬库什”较为柔和,但在几个月前,另一个品种带给他完全不同的体验。“吸第二口的时候,我倒在地板上。没有想法,只是纯粹的体验,一种即时的流状态,”他写的是“红发陌生人14号”。十分钟后,他观察到一个突然的变化:“我是人体咖啡,像深焙滴滤壶一样滴落着语言。”<span word="In">In</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="spirit">spirit</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="service">service</span> <span word="journalism">journalism</span> — <span word="and">and</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>, <span word="what">what</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="criticism">criticism</span> <span word="if">if</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="service">service</span>? — <span word="each">each</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Brownes">Brownes</span> <span word="reviews">reviews</span> <span word="ends">ends</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="summary">summary</span>. <span word="Alien">Alien</span> <span word="Napalm">Napalm</span>, <span word="for">for</span> <span word="instance">instance</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="concluded">concluded</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="great">great</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="sleep">sleep</span>, <span word="pain">pain</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="increasing">increasing</span> <span word="appetite">appetite</span> (<span word="but">but</span> <span word="never">never</span> <span word="use">use</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="appetizer">appetizer</span>). <span word="The">The</span> <span word="Red">Red</span> <span word="Headed">Headed</span> <span word="Stranger">Stranger</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="good">good</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="loosening">loosening</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="limbs">limbs</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="muscles">muscles</span>. <span word="But">But</span> <span word="if">if</span> <span word="thats">thats</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="effect">effect</span> <span word="youre">youre</span> <span word="going">going</span> <span word="for">for</span>, <span word="make">make</span> <span word="sure">sure</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="stay">stay</span> <span word="away">away</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="Green">Green</span> <span word="Crack">Crack</span>. (<span word="m">m</span> <span word="no">no</span> <span word="physician">physician</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="this">this</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="close">close</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="Ive">Ive</span> <span word="come">come</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="marijuana">marijuana</span>-<span word="induced">induced</span> <span word="A">A</span>.<span word="D">D</span>.<span word="D">D</span>., <span word="he">he</span> <span word="wrote">wrote</span>.)根据服务资讯主义精神——他说,如果大麻评论不是一种服务,那它还能是什么呢——布朗尼的每篇评论最后都有总结。比如说,他给“异星凝固汽油弹”写的总结是:它有助睡眠、缓解疼痛和增进食欲(但是,“绝对不要作为开胃药使用”);“红发陌生人”对“放松四肢和肌肉”有好处。但如果你想追求身体方面的益处,就千万别碰“绿裂缝”,(“我不是医生,但使用它让我差点得了大麻诱发的注意力缺陷障碍,”他写道。)<span word="No">No</span>, <span word="being">being</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="pot">pot</span> <span word="critic">critic</span> <span word="doesnt">doesnt</span> <span word="pay">pay</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="bills">bills</span> (<span word="nor">nor</span> <span word="does">does</span> <span word="The">The</span> <span word="Post">Post</span> <span word="reimburse">reimburse</span> <span word="him">him</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="pot">pot</span>). <span word="But">But</span>, <span word="Mr">Mr</span>. <span word="Browne">Browne</span> <span word="said">said</span>, <span word="it">it</span> <span word="beats">beats</span> <span word="working">working</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="coffee">coffee</span> <span word="shop">shop</span> (<span word="where">where</span>, <span word="for">for</span> <span word="what">what</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="worth">worth</span>, <span word="hed">hed</span> <span word="probably">probably</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="take">take</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="drug">drug</span> <span word="test">test</span>).不,做大麻评论赚不了多少钱(《邮报》也不报销他买大麻的费用)。但是,布朗尼说,这比在咖啡店工作好(不管怎么说,到那儿去工作他还得先通过药检才行)。<span word="I">I</span> <span word="feel">feel</span> <span word="lucky">lucky</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="this">this</span> <span word="person">person</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="middle">middle</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="historical">historical</span> <span word="moment">moment</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="dont">dont</span> <span word="think">think</span> <span word="well">well</span> <span word="see">see</span> <span word="anything">anything</span> <span word="really">really</span> <span word="comparable">comparable</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="it">it</span>, <span word="he">he</span> <span word="said">said</span>, <span word="finishing">finishing</span> <span word="up">up</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="day">day</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="taqueria">taqueria</span> <span word="down">down</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="street">street</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="house">house</span>. <span word="And">And</span>, <span word="you">you</span> <span word="know">know</span>, <span word="I">I</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="pot">pot</span>, <span word="I">I</span> <span word="think">think</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="fun">fun</span> <span word="topic">topic</span>. <span word="Somebody">Somebody</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="cover">cover</span> <span word="it">it</span>. <span word="So">So</span> <span word="why">why</span> <span word="cant">cant</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="guy">guy</span>?“能在这个历史时刻中扮演一个角色,我感到非常幸运,我觉得这件事无与伦比,”他说,一天的工作结束,他到自家街头的墨西哥小餐馆吃饭。“你知道,我喜欢大麻,我觉得这是个有意思的题材。必须有人为它辩护,为什么我不能成为这个人呢?”</p>
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