首页 › 趣味英语 › 墨西哥名厨恩里克#12539;奥尔韦拉的烹饪创新

meili 发表于 2022-10-18 20:25:54

墨西哥名厨恩里克#12539;奥尔韦拉的烹饪创新

墨西哥名厨恩里克奥尔韦拉(<span word="Enrique">Enrique</span> <span word="Olvera">Olvera</span>)于13年前开办了自己的餐厅――<span word="Pujol">Pujol</span>，他说他当时唯一的目标就是做出“货真价实、美味可口的食物”，打造“全社区最棒的餐厅”。不过，这个社区可是墨西哥城的波兰科(<span word="Polanco">Polanco</span>)，它是这个拥有850万人口的城市的餐饮中心，而奥尔韦拉的预算又非常少，他的妻子都不得不亲自上阵刷 。自那以后，奥尔韦拉取得的成绩已远超他最初的目标，如今<span word="Pujol">Pujol</span>已被普遍认为是墨西哥最好的餐厅，而且还在备受关注的 培露(<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="Pellegrino">Pellegrino</span>)评级中位列全球最佳餐厅的第三十六位。在回国之前，奥尔韦拉曾在纽约的美国烹饪学院(<span word="Culinary">Culinary</span> <span word="Institute">Institute</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="America">America</span>)接受培训，现在他是墨西哥最负盛名的大厨。他通过逐步使他的菜式“越来越新奇、越来越复杂”坐上了今日的位置。现在<span word="Pujol">Pujol</span>推出了一系列有创新性、精细复杂的菜品，把它们放在英格兰的<span word="Fat">Fat</span> <span word="Duck">Duck</span>餐厅或纽约的<span word="MomofukuKo">MomofukuKo</span>餐厅也不会显得上不了台面。奥尔韦拉还是墨西哥新烹饪法的主要代表人物之一，该烹饪法将精妙前沿的技术与对本地食材的注重结合在一起，以此创造出既国际化同时又无疑具有墨西哥特色的世界性的菜肴，这一点与墨西哥城自身的发展方向不谋而合。 <span word="A">A</span> <span word="visit">visit</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> 48-<span word="seat">seat</span> <span word="Pujol">Pujol</span> <span word="reveals">reveals</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="space">space</span>-<span word="age">age</span> <span word="kitchen">kitchen</span> <span word="containing">containing</span> 27 <span word="cooks">cooks</span>, <span word="including">including</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="number">number</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="stagiaires">stagiaires</span> <span word="who">who</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="flown">flown</span> <span word="thousands">thousands</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="miles">miles</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="work">work</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="free">free</span>-<span word="one">one</span> <span word="spends">spends</span> <span word="hours">hours</span> <span word="picking">picking</span> <span word="cilantro">cilantro</span> <span word="flowers">flowers</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="tweezers">tweezers</span>; <span word="another">another</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="making">making</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="fifth">fifth</span> <span word="attempt">attempt</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="perfect">perfect</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="apparently">apparently</span> <span word="simple">simple</span> <span word="dish">dish</span>. <span word="As">As</span> <span word="Pujol">Pujol</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="become">become</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="place">place</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="attracts">attracts</span> <span word="free">free</span> <span word="labor">labor</span> (<span word="if">if</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="want">want</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="stage">stage</span> <span word="here">here</span> <span word="now">now</span>, <span word="you">you</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="wait">wait</span> <span word="until">until</span> 2014, <span word="says">says</span> <span word="Olvera">Olvera</span>), <span word="the">the</span> <span word="chef">chef</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="begun">begun</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="think">think</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="bringing">bringing</span> <span word="Mexican">Mexican</span> <span word="cooks">cooks</span> <span word="home">home</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="Hed">Hed</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="them">them</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="move">move</span> <span word="past">past</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="glass">glass</span> <span word="ceiling">ceiling</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="exists">exists</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="America">America</span> (<span word="despite">despite</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="number">number</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Mexicans">Mexicans</span> <span word="working">working</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="restaurants">restaurants</span>, <span word="you">you</span> <span word="rarely">rarely</span> <span word="see">see</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="Mexican">Mexican</span> <span word="head">head</span> <span word="chef">chef</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="New">New</span> <span word="York">York</span> <span word="kitchen">kitchen</span>, <span word="Olvera">Olvera</span> <span word="points">points</span> <span word="out">out</span>) <span word="and">and</span> <span word="advance">advance</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="careers">careers</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="home">home</span> <span word="turf">turf</span>. <span word="As">As</span> <span word="Olvera">Olvera</span> <span word="guides">guides</span> <span word="his">his</span> <span word="cooks">cooks</span> <span word="through">through</span> <span word="lunchtime">lunchtime</span> <span word="service">service</span>-<span word="Hey">Hey</span>, <span word="make">make</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="blob">blob</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="sauce">sauce</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="size">size</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="walnutYou">walnutYou</span>: <span word="pull">pull</span> <span word="your">your</span> <span word="hat">hat</span> <span word="down">down</span>-<span word="he">he</span> <span word="talks">talks</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="coming">coming</span> <span word="home">home</span>, <span word="tradition">tradition</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="innovation">innovation</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="how">how</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="Disney">Disney</span> <span word="movie">movie</span> <span word="changed">changed</span> <span word="one">one</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="worlds">worlds</span> <span word="best">best</span> <span word="restaurants">restaurants</span>. <span word="Pujol">Pujol</span>餐厅共有48个座位，它的超现代的厨房中现在有27名厨师，包括一群从数千英里之外飞来免费干活的实习厨师。其中一名实习厨师要花数个小时用镊子挑选香菜花，另一人则在第五次尝试使一道表面上简单的菜品变得完美。由于<span word="Pujol">Pujol</span>已成为一个能吸引免费劳力的地方（奥尔韦拉称：“如果你想在这儿实习，那得等到2014年了。”），奥尔韦拉已经开始考虑要将墨西哥厨师从美国吸引回国。他希望他们能绕过存在于美国的“玻璃天花板”（尽管有大量墨西哥厨师在美国的餐厅工作，但奥尔韦拉指出“你在纽约的餐厅很少能看到一位墨西哥主厨”），回到自己的国家发展他们的事业。他一边指导厨师们准备午餐――“喂，把那团酱弄成一个核桃的大小”；“你，把帽子拉低些”――一边谈论著有关回国、传统与创新的问题，以及一部迪斯尼(<span word="Disney">Disney</span>)的影片如何改变了这家位列全球最佳的餐厅。 <span word="ENRIQUE">ENRIQUE</span> <span word="OLVERA">OLVERA</span>: <span word="Mexico">Mexico</span> <span word="City">City</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="changing">changing</span> <span word="quickly">quickly</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="restaurants">restaurants</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="really">really</span> <span word="good">good</span> <span word="spot">spot</span>. <span word="Theres">Theres</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="attention">attention</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="rest">rest</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="world">world</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="Mexican">Mexican</span> <span word="food">food</span>. <span word="Fifteen">Fifteen</span> <span word="years">years</span> <span word="ago">ago</span>, <span word="I">I</span> <span word="wouldnt">wouldnt</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="thought">thought</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="would">would</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="considered">considered</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="high">high</span>-<span word="level">level</span> <span word="cuisine">cuisine</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="valued">valued</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="same">same</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="Italian">Italian</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="Spanish">Spanish</span> <span word="food">food</span>-<span word="especially">especially</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Mexico">Mexico</span>. <span word="Foreigners">Foreigners</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="always">always</span> <span word="liked">liked</span> <span word="our">our</span> <span word="food">food</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="thought">thought</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="very">very</span> <span word="causal">causal</span>, <span word="almost">almost</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="street">street</span> <span word="food">food</span>. <span word="Now">Now</span> <span word="theyre">theyre</span> <span word="realizing">realizing</span> <span word="theres">theres</span> <span word="sophistication">sophistication</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="it">it</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="theres">theres</span> <span word="potential">potential</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="make">make</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="just">just</span> <span word="tasty">tasty</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="but">but</span> <span word="also">also</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="very">very</span> <span word="high">high</span> <span word="quality">quality</span>. 墨西哥城在迅速改变，餐饮处于一个非常有利的位置，世界其他地方更关注墨西哥美食了。放在15年前，我不会想到它会被人视为高端菜系，会和意大利菜和西班牙菜受到同样的重视――尤其是在墨西哥。外国人一直都喜欢我们的食物，但以前他们认为它是非常简便随意的，几乎就像街边小吃一样。现在他们意识到它也有精妙复杂之处，它不仅能够提供美味的食物，也能够提供品质非常高的食物。 <span word="This">This</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="cosmopolitan">cosmopolitan</span> <span word="city">city</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="influences">influences</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="Europe">Europe</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="local">local</span> <span word="culture">culture</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="Its">Its</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="very">very</span> <span word="nice">nice</span> <span word="mix">mix</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="three">three</span> <span word="components">components</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Mexicans">Mexicans</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="starting">starting</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="fall">fall</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="love">love</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="mix">mix</span>. <span word="If">If</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="look">look</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="Pujol">Pujol</span>, <span word="with">with</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="decoration">decoration</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="food">food</span>, <span word="its">its</span> <span word="Mexican">Mexican</span>-<span word="you">you</span> <span word="feel">feel</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Polanco">Polanco</span>; <span word="you">you</span> <span word="dont">dont</span> <span word="feel">feel</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="youre">youre</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="New">New</span> <span word="York">York</span>-<span word="but">but</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="all">all</span> <span word="pink">pink</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="mariachis">mariachis</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="crap">crap</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="that">that</span>, <span word="because">because</span> <span word="thats">thats</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="Mexico">Mexico</span> <span word="City">City</span>. 这是一个国际化都市，受到欧洲、本土文化及美国的影响。它是这三个要素的绝佳融合体，如今墨西哥人开始喜欢上了这种融合。看看<span word="Pujol">Pujol</span>，它的这些装饰和食物，你会发现它是墨西哥风格的，你会感觉自己身在波兰科，不会觉得自己在纽约。但是，它一点也不低俗，没有像墨西哥流浪乐队那样的低俗表演，因为这不是墨西哥城的风格。 <span word="At">At</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="restaurant">restaurant</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="used">used</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="do">do</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="lot">lot</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="reinterpretations">reinterpretations</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="traditional">traditional</span> <span word="Mexican">Mexican</span> <span word="dishes">dishes</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="then">then</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="got">got</span> <span word="tired">tired</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="started">started</span> <span word="trying">trying</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="create">create</span> <span word="new">new</span> <span word="dishes">dishes</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="very">very</span> <span word="strong">strong</span> <span word="Mexican">Mexican</span> <span word="base">base</span>. <span word="Until">Until</span> <span word="two">two</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="three">three</span> <span word="years">years</span> <span word="ago">ago</span>, <span word="all">all</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="ingredients">ingredients</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="Mexican">Mexican</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="also">also</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="authentic">authentic</span>, <span word="so">so</span>, <span word="for">for</span> <span word="example">example</span>, <span word="we">we</span> <span word="wouldnt">wouldnt</span> <span word="use">use</span> <span word="parsnip">parsnip</span>. <span word="But">But</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="know">know</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="movie">movie</span> <span word="Ratatouille">Ratatouille</span>? <span word="In">In</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="beginning">beginning</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="head">head</span> <span word="chef">chef</span>, <span word="Gusteau">Gusteau</span>, <span word="is">is</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="TV">TV</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="says">says</span>, <span word="You">You</span> <span word="cannot">cannot</span> <span word="limit">limit</span> <span word="your">your</span> <span word="creativity">creativity</span> <span word="because">because</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="place">place</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="born">born</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="remembered">remembered</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="later">later</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="figured">figured</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="true">true</span>. <span word="So">So</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="started">started</span> <span word="incorporating">incorporating</span> <span word="ingredients">ingredients</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="originally">originally</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="other">other</span> <span word="parts">parts</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="world">world</span>. <span word="We">We</span> <span word="said">said</span>, <span word="If">If</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="grows">grows</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Mexico">Mexico</span>, <span word="fine">fine</span>, <span word="we">we</span> <span word="use">use</span> <span word="it">it</span>. <span word="For">For</span> <span word="example">example</span>, <span word="now">now</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="lot">lot</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Mexicans">Mexicans</span> <span word="eat">eat</span> <span word="broccoli">broccoli</span>. <span word="Its">Its</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="second">second</span>-<span word="largest">largest</span> <span word="crop">crop</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="center">center</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="country">country</span>, <span word="so">so</span> <span word="why">why</span> <span word="shouldnt">shouldnt</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="do">do</span> <span word="broccoli">broccoli</span>? <span word="We">We</span> <span word="brought">brought</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="little">little</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="our">our</span> <span word="own">own</span> <span word="vision">vision</span>. <span word="That">That</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="first">first</span> <span word="year">year</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="got">got</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="list">list</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="The">The</span> <span word="Worlds">Worlds</span> 50 <span word="Best">Best</span> <span word="Restaurants">Restaurants</span>. 以前我们的餐厅常常做很多重新诠释传统墨西哥菜肴的菜品，后来我们感到厌烦，开始尝试创造拥有非常厚重的墨西哥传统根基的新菜品。直到两三年前，所有的食材还都必须是墨西哥的，而且必须是正宗的，比如说我们就不会采用欧洲萝卜。你知道《美食总动员》(<span word="Ratatouille">Ratatouille</span>)这部电影吗？影片一开始，厨师长古斯多(<span word="Gusteau">Gusteau</span>)就在电视上讲道，‘你不能让你出生的地方限制了你的创造力’，后来我想起了这句话，明白了事实确实如此。因此，我们开始混入源自世界其他地区的食材。我们说：“如果它生长在墨西哥，那好，我们就用它。’比如说，现在很多墨西哥人都吃西兰花了。它是我们国家中部地区的第二大作物，所以我们为什么不用西兰花做菜呢？我们加入了更多一些我们自己的想象。那是我们登上“全球50大最佳餐厅”榜单的第一年。 <span word="Most">Most</span> <span word="people">people</span> <span word="think">think</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="choose">choose</span> <span word="between">between</span> <span word="tradition">tradition</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="doing">doing</span> <span word="modern">modern</span> <span word="food">food</span>. <span word="We">We</span> <span word="do">do</span> <span word="both">both</span>-<span word="they">they</span> <span word="can">can</span> <span word="coexist">coexist</span> <span word="nicely">nicely</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="dish">dish</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="definitely">definitely</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="menu">menu</span>. <span word="You">You</span> <span word="always">always</span> <span word="cherish">cherish</span> <span word="where">where</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="come">come</span> <span word="from">from</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="also">also</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="need">need</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="new">new</span> <span word="sensations">sensations</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="improve">improve</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="those">those</span> <span word="old">old</span> <span word="traditions">traditions</span>. <span word="Its">Its</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="just">just</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="innovation">innovation</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="own">own</span> <span word="sake">sake</span>-<span word="its">its</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="get">get</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="better">better</span> <span word="dish">dish</span>. <span word="For">For</span> <span word="example">example</span>, <span word="when">when</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="nixtamalize">nixtamalize</span> <span word="corn">corn</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="make">make</span> <span word="tortillas">tortillas</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="traditional">traditional</span> <span word="recipe">recipe</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="boil">boil</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="corn">corn</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="limestone">limestone</span>, <span word="let">let</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="sit">sit</span> <span word="overnight">overnight</span> <span word="outside">outside</span>, <span word="then">then</span> <span word="grind">grind</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="mill">mill</span>. <span word="But">But</span> <span word="perhaps">perhaps</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="can">can</span> <span word="get">get</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="better">better</span> <span word="masa">masa</span> <span word="if">if</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="sous">sous</span>-<span word="vide">vide</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="corn">corn</span> <span word="at">at</span> 65 <span word="degrees">degrees</span>, <span word="without">without</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="huge">huge</span> <span word="temperature">temperature</span> <span word="shock">shock</span>. <span word="You">You</span> <span word="might">might</span>, <span word="so">so</span> <span word="why">why</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="do">do</span> <span word="it">it</span>? <span word="You">You</span> <span word="try">try</span> <span word="it">it</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="if">if</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="better">better</span>, <span word="you">you</span> <span word="change">change</span> <span word="it">it</span>; <span word="if">if</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="not">not</span>, <span word="you">you</span> <span word="keep">keep</span> <span word="doing">doing</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="traditional">traditional</span> <span word="style">style</span>. <span word="If">If</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="architect">architect</span>, <span word="it">it</span> <span word="would">would</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="really">really</span> <span word="stupid">stupid</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="building">building</span> <span word="houses">houses</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="were">were</span> 50 <span word="years">years</span> <span word="ago">ago</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="kitchens">kitchens</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="same">same</span> <span word="thing">thing</span>. <span word="If">If</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="want">want</span> <span word="tradition">tradition</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="alive">alive</span>, <span word="you">you</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="keep">keep</span> <span word="doing">doing</span> <span word="things">things</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="it">it</span>. <span word="Time">Time</span> <span word="will">will</span> <span word="tell">tell</span> <span word="whos">whos</span> <span word="doing">doing</span> <span word="good">good</span> <span word="stuff">stuff</span>. 大多数人都认为他们必须在传统菜与现代菜之间做出选择。我们两样都做，它们能很好地共存于一道菜中，当然也能在同一份菜单上共存。人总是珍视自己的传统，但我也需要新感觉，也需要改进那些旧传统。这不只是为了创新而创新，而是为了做出一盘更美味的菜。例如，如果你想用 性溶液处理玉米去做玉米粉圆饼，传统方法是煮玉米时加入石灰石，接下来把玉米放在外面凉一晚，然后再去磨坊将它磨成粉。然而，假如你在华氏65度的温度下用真空低温烹饪法对它进行处理，没有了剧烈的温度变化，磨出来的粉或许会更好。你能这么做，那么为什么不去做呢？你可以去试试，如果效果更好，你就改变方法；如果效果并没有更好，那你就继续按传统方式做。假如你是位建筑师，如果你还像50年前一样建房子是非常愚蠢的行为。厨房之事也是一样，如果你想让传统延续下去，你就得不断地对它进行改进，时间会告诉大家谁做的是好事。 <span word="The">The</span> <span word="Mexican">Mexican</span> <span word="cooks">cooks</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="didnt">didnt</span> <span word="go">go</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="cook">cook</span>; <span word="its">its</span> <span word="just">just</span> <span word="poor">poor</span> <span word="people">people</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="no">no</span> <span word="opportunities">opportunities</span>, <span word="that">that</span> <span word="dont">dont</span> <span word="see">see</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="future">future</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Mexico">Mexico</span>, <span word="so">so</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="go">go</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="Once">Once</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="arrive">arrive</span>, <span word="they">they</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="very">very</span> <span word="few">few</span> <span word="options">options</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="work">work</span>. <span word="My">My</span> <span word="dream">dream</span>-<span word="and">and</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="think">think</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="dream">dream</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="lot">lot</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="people">people</span> <span word="here">here</span>-<span word="is">is</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="dont">dont</span> <span word="need">need</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="go">go</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="feel">feel</span> <span word="unwanted">unwanted</span>. <span word="If">If</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="go">go</span>, <span word="its">its</span> <span word="fine">fine</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="should">should</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="hired">hired</span>. <span word="People">People</span> <span word="should">should</span> <span word="call">call</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="say">say</span>, <span word="I">I</span> <span word="want">want</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="come">come</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="work">work</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="my">my</span> <span word="restaurant">restaurant</span>, <span word="like">like</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="do">do</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="other">other</span> <span word="nationalities">nationalities</span>. <span word="Its">Its</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="nature">nature</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="how">how</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="works">works</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="understand">understand</span> <span word="that">that</span>. <span word="But">But</span> <span word="if">if</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="can">can</span> <span word="change">change</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="little">little</span> <span word="itd">itd</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="nice">nice</span>. 在美国的墨西哥厨师当初去那儿并不是为了做厨师的，他们只是没有机会、在墨西哥又看不到未来的穷人，所以他们去了美国。到了那儿之后，他们可选择的工作非常少。我的梦想是――而且我认为这也是很多人的梦想――有一天他们不需要跑去那儿感觉自己是多余的。如果他们去了，没问题，但是他们应该有就业机会。应当有人打电话给他们说，‘我希望你来我的餐厅工作’，就像他们对待其他族裔的人一样。当然，事情的发展原本就是这样的，我也理解这一点，但是如果我们能对它做一点点改变，那也是不错的。 <span word="I">I</span> <span word="dont">dont</span> <span word="think">think</span> <span word="cooks">cooks</span> <span word="abroad">abroad</span> <span word="realize">realize</span> <span word="Mexico">Mexico</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="changed">changed</span> <span word="cuisinewise">cuisinewise</span>. <span word="And">And</span> <span word="when">when</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="come">come</span> <span word="back">back</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="see">see</span> <span word="theres">theres</span> <span word="this">this</span> <span word="huge">huge</span> <span word="potential">potential</span>. <span word="I">I</span> <span word="think">think</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="should">should</span> <span word="spread">spread</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="word">word</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="good">good</span> <span word="restaurants">restaurants</span> <span word="here">here</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Mexico">Mexico</span>. <span word="If">If</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="compare">compare</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="amount">amount</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="money">money</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="make">make</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="quality">quality</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="life">life</span>, <span word="its">its</span> <span word="almost">almost</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="same">same</span>. <span word="Yes">Yes</span>, <span word="in">in</span> <span word="New">New</span> <span word="York">York</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="might">might</span> <span word="earn">earn</span> $60,000 <span word="as">as</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="pastry">pastry</span> <span word="chef">chef</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="here">here</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="might">might</span> <span word="earn">earn</span> $3,000, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="rent">rent</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="much">much</span> <span word="cheaper">cheaper</span>, <span word="you">you</span> <span word="dont">dont</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="sending">sending</span> <span word="money">money</span> <span word="home">home</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="youre">youre</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="your">your</span> <span word="own">own</span> <span word="people">people</span>. <span word="Most">Most</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="cooks">cooks</span> <span word="here">here</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="worked">worked</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Europe">Europe</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="States">States</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="when">when</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="come">come</span> <span word="back">back</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="appreciate">appreciate</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="ingredients">ingredients</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="see">see</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="possibilities">possibilities</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="working">working</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="Mexican">Mexican</span> <span word="products">products</span>. <span word="I">I</span> <span word="also">also</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="idea">idea</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Mexicans">Mexicans</span> <span word="leaving">leaving</span> <span word="Mexico">Mexico</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="coming">coming</span> <span word="back">back</span> <span word="because">because</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="did">did</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="myself">myself</span>. <span word="You">You</span> <span word="realize">realize</span> <span word="what">what</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="about">about</span> <span word="your">your</span> <span word="own">own</span> <span word="country">country</span> <span word="when">when</span> <span word="youre">youre</span> <span word="outside">outside</span> <span word="it">it</span>. 我觉得在国外的厨师没有意识到墨西哥在烹饪方面发生了变化。他们回来时就会发现这儿原来有这么巨大的潜力，我认为我们应当向世界传播墨西哥也有好餐厅的消息。如果你对收入的数量与生活的质量进行比较，在墨西哥和在国外几乎都是一样的。是的，在纽约做糕点厨师你或许能挣60,000美元，在这儿也许你只能挣3,000美元，但是这儿的房租要便宜得多，你不必把钱寄回家，而且你能和自己的家人呆在一起。我们这儿的大多数厨师都曾在欧洲或美国工作过，他们回来后对于食材有了更多的理解和认识，能看到利用墨西哥食材进行烹饪的种种可能。我也喜欢墨西哥人离开自己国家然后再回来，因为我自己就是这么做的。当你身处异国时，你会明白你喜欢自己国家的哪些方面。</p>

查看完整版本: 墨西哥名厨恩里克#12539;奥尔韦拉的烹饪创新