首页 › 趣味英语 › 孟加拉崛起:快时尚需求推动孟加拉服装制造业繁荣

meili 发表于 2022-10-18 20:25:53

孟加拉崛起:快时尚需求推动孟加拉服装制造业繁荣

周四晚上，布鲁克斯(<span word="Monica">Monica</span> <span word="Brooks">Brooks</span>)和她八岁的女儿摩根(<span word="Morgan">Morgan</span>)在达拉斯一家<span word="Zara">Zara</span>店的货架间扫荡，浏览标价16美元的珠缀<span word="T">T</span>恤衫和10美元的褶饰上装。<span word="Labels">Labels</span> <span word="inside">inside</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="clothing">clothing</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="fast">fast</span>-<span word="fashion">fashion</span> <span word="chain">chain</span> <span word="showed">showed</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="came">came</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="around">around</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="globe">globe</span>, <span word="including">including</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="Bangladesh">Bangladesh</span>, <span word="the">the</span> <span word="site">site</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="spate">spate</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="deadly">deadly</span> <span word="textile">textile</span>-<span word="factory">factory</span> <span word="fires">fires</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="recent">recent</span> <span word="building">building</span> <span word="collapse">collapse</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="killed">killed</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="than">than</span> 1,100 <span word="garment">garment</span> <span word="workers">workers</span>.从这家快时尚连锁店的服装标签显示，这些服装来自世界各地，包括孟加拉国。孟加拉国的服装厂曾发生一系列致命的火灾，最近，一栋大楼的倒塌导致超过1,100名服装工人死亡。<span word="That">That</span> <span word="surprised">surprised</span> <span word="Ms">Ms</span>. <span word="Brooks">Brooks</span>, <span word="a">a</span> 41-<span word="year">year</span>-<span word="old">old</span> <span word="software">software</span> <span word="saleswoman">saleswoman</span> <span word="who">who</span> <span word="shops">shops</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="Zara">Zara</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="should">should</span>, <span word="she">she</span> <span word="said">said</span>. <span word="It">It</span> <span word="just">just</span> <span word="goes">goes</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="show">show</span> <span word="you">you</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="paying">paying</span> <span word="attention">attention</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="that">that</span>.这让布鲁克斯感到惊讶。布鲁克斯是一名41岁的软件销售人员。她说，我在<span word="Zara">Zara</span>购物的次数简直太多了。布鲁克斯说，这只能说明我们以前没注意到衣服的产地。<span word="Americans">Americans</span> <span word="appetite">appetite</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="cheap">cheap</span> <span word="clothes">clothes</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="one">one</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="strongest">strongest</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="economic">economic</span> <span word="forces">forces</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="led">led</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="boom">boom</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Bangladesh">Bangladesh</span>, <span word="with">with</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="resulting">resulting</span> <span word="race">race</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="add">add</span> <span word="manufacturing">manufacturing</span> <span word="capacity">capacity</span> <span word="setting">setting</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="stage">stage</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="series">series</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="horrific">horrific</span> <span word="accidents">accidents</span>.美国人对廉价服装的欲望是引发孟加拉服装业繁荣的最强大的经济力量之一，随之而来的加紧提高产能的趋势成了上述一系列可怕事故的导火索。<span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="consumers">consumers</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="become">become</span> <span word="accustomed">accustomed</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="spending">spending</span> <span word="relatively">relatively</span> <span word="little">little</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="clothing">clothing</span> <span word="compared">compared</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="other">other</span> <span word="items">items</span>─<span word="and">and</span> <span word="getting">getting</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="lot">lot</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="money">money</span>. <span word="Americans">Americans</span> <span word="last">last</span> <span word="year">year</span> <span word="devoted">devoted</span> <span word="just">just</span> 3% <span word="of">of</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="annual">annual</span> <span word="spending">spending</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="clothing">clothing</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="footwear">footwear</span>, <span word="compared">compared</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="around">around</span> 7% <span word="in">in</span> 1970 <span word="and">and</span> <span word="about">about</span> 13% <span word="in">in</span> 1945, <span word="according">according</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="Commerce">Commerce</span> <span word="Department">Department</span> <span word="data">data</span>.相比其他方面的开支，美国的消费者已经习惯了在服装上少花钱，但要物超所值。根据商务部(<span word="Commerce">Commerce</span> <span word="Department">Department</span>)的数据，美国人去年花在服装和鞋类上的支出仅占他们年度开支的3%，相比之下，1970年的这一比例为大约7%，1945年为13%左右。<span word="One">One</span> <span word="reason">reason</span> <span word="Americans">Americans</span> <span word="now">now</span> <span word="spend">spend</span> <span word="so">so</span> <span word="little">little</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="clothing">clothing</span> <span word="prices">prices</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="fallen">fallen</span> <span word="significantly">significantly</span> <span word="over">over</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="past">past</span> <span word="two">two</span> <span word="decades">decades</span>, <span word="after">after</span> <span word="rising">rising</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> 1950<span word="s">s</span>, 1960<span word="s">s</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="especially">especially</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> 1970<span word="s">s</span>.美国人在服装上的支出这么少的一个原因是，美国的服装价格过去20年大幅下降，而此前，在上世纪50、60年代，尤其是70年代，服装的价格一直在不断上升。<span word="Chains">Chains</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="Inditex">Inditex</span> <span word="SAs">SAs</span> <span word="ITX">ITX</span>.<span word="MC">MC</span> +0.98% <span word="Zara">Zara</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Hennes">Hennes</span><span word="Mauritz">Mauritz</span> <span word="ABs">ABs</span> <span word="HM">HM</span>-<span word="B">B</span>.<span word="SK">SK</span> +0.77% <span word="HM">HM</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="set">set</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="tone">tone</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="fast">fast</span> <span word="fashion">fashion</span>.<span word="Inditex">Inditex</span> <span word="SA">SA</span>旗下的<span word="Zara">Zara</span>和海恩斯莫里斯(<span word="Hennes">Hennes</span><span word="Mauritz">Mauritz</span> <span word="AB">AB</span>)旗下<span word="HM">HM</span>等服装连锁为“快时尚”定下了基调。<span word="Apparel">Apparel</span> <span word="prices">prices</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="lower">lower</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="absolute">absolute</span> <span word="terms">terms</span> <span word="now">now</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> 1990<span word="s">s</span>, <span word="says">says</span> <span word="Dean">Dean</span> <span word="Maki">Maki</span>, <span word="an">an</span> <span word="economist">economist</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="Barclays">Barclays</span> <span word="BARC">BARC</span>.<span word="LN">LN</span> +1.42% .巴克莱集团(<span word="Barclays">Barclays</span> <span word="PLC">PLC</span>, <span word="BARC">BARC</span>.<span word="LN">LN</span>)的经济学家马奇(<span word="Dean">Dean</span> <span word="Maki">Maki</span>)说，目前的服装价格绝对低于上世纪90年代的价格。<span word="Since">Since</span> 1990, <span word="clothing">clothing</span> <span word="prices">prices</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="have">have</span> <span word="risen">risen</span> <span word="just">just</span> 10% <span word="compared">compared</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="an">an</span> 82% <span word="jump">jump</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="food">food</span> <span word="prices">prices</span> <span word="during">during</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="same">same</span> <span word="period">period</span>, <span word="according">according</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="Jessica">Jessica</span> <span word="Tenvose">Tenvose</span>, <span word="an">an</span> <span word="economist">economist</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="Bureau">Bureau</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Labor">Labor</span> <span word="Statistics">Statistics</span>, <span word="which">which</span> <span word="compiles">compiles</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Consumer">Consumer</span> <span word="Price">Price</span> <span word="Index">Index</span>.美国劳工统计局(<span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="Bureau">Bureau</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="Labor">Labor</span> <span word="Statistics">Statistics</span>)的经济学家<span word="Jessica">Jessica</span> <span word="Tenvose">Tenvose</span>说，上世纪90年代以来，美国的服装价格仅上涨了10%，相比之下，食品价格在同一时期上涨了82%。美国劳工统计局负责编制消费者价格指数(<span word="Consumer">Consumer</span> <span word="Price">Price</span> <span word="Index">Index</span>)。<span word="If">If</span> <span word="adjusted">adjusted</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="inflation">inflation</span>, <span word="clothing">clothing</span> <span word="prices">prices</span> <span word="would">would</span> <span word="show">show</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="decline">decline</span>.如果经过通胀调整，服装的价格则呈下降趋势。<span word="That">That</span> <span word="may">may</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="changing">changing</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="bit">bit</span>. <span word="Apparel">Apparel</span> <span word="prices">prices</span> <span word="rose">rose</span> <span word="about">about</span> 2% <span word="in">in</span> <span word="December">December</span> 2012 <span word="from">from</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="year">year</span> <span word="earlier">earlier</span>, <span word="following">following</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="jump">jump</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="almost">almost</span> 5% <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="previous">previous</span> <span word="year">year</span> <span word="when">when</span> <span word="cotton">cotton</span> <span word="prices">prices</span> <span word="spiked">spiked</span>.这种情况正在发生微小的变化。2012年12月，服装价格同比上涨了2%，之前一年，棉花价格飙升时，服装价格上涨了将近5%。<span word="But">But</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="consumers">consumers</span> <span word="so">so</span> <span word="used">used</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="paying">paying</span> <span word="so">so</span> <span word="little">little</span>, <span word="retailers">retailers</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="apparel">apparel</span> <span word="manufacturers">manufacturers</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="reluctant">reluctant</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="raise">raise</span> <span word="prices">prices</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="become">become</span> <span word="even">even</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="eager">eager</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="find">find</span> <span word="low">low</span>-<span word="cost">cost</span> <span word="countries">countries</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="produce">produce</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="goods">goods</span> <span word="in">in</span>, <span word="economists">economists</span> <span word="say">say</span>.但是经济学家们说，鉴于消费者已经习惯花很少的钱购买服装，零售商和服装制造商不愿意涨价，他们更加迫切地寻找低成本的服装产地。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="sluggish">sluggish</span> <span word="U">U</span>.<span word="S">S</span>. <span word="economy">economy</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="stagnant">stagnant</span> <span word="wage">wage</span> <span word="growth">growth</span> <span word="add">add</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="pressure">pressure</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="retailers">retailers</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="capping">capping</span> <span word="consumers">consumers</span> <span word="disposable">disposable</span> <span word="income">income</span>, <span word="but">but</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="desire">desire</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="shop">shop</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="trendy">trendy</span> <span word="new">new</span> <span word="outfits">outfits</span> <span word="remains">remains</span> <span word="strong">strong</span>.美国经济的低迷和工资增长的停滞让消费者的可支配收入十分有限，这增加了零售商的压力，但人们购买新的潮流服装的欲望仍然强烈。<span word="Meanwhile">Meanwhile</span>, <span word="labor">labor</span> <span word="costs">costs</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="China">China</span>─<span word="long">long</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="worlds">worlds</span> <span word="low">low</span>-<span word="cost">cost</span> <span word="factory">factory</span> <span word="floor">floor</span>─<span word="have">have</span> <span word="been">been</span> <span word="rising">rising</span> <span word="rapidly">rapidly</span>.与此同时，在长期充当世界工厂的中国，劳动力成本一直在迅速上升。<span word="So">So</span> <span word="retailers">retailers</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="apparel">apparel</span> <span word="producers">producers</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="switching">switching</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="lower">lower</span>-<span word="cost">cost</span> <span word="alternatives">alternatives</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="India">India</span>, <span word="Vietnam">Vietnam</span>, <span word="Cambodia">Cambodia</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Bangladesh">Bangladesh</span>, <span word="where">where</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="entry">entry</span>-<span word="level">level</span> <span word="wage">wage</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="garment">garment</span> <span word="workers">workers</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="shy">shy</span> <span word="of">of</span> $40 <span word="a">a</span> <span word="month">month</span>.因此，零售商和服装制造商正在转向成本更低的其他国家，如印度、越南、柬埔寨和孟加拉国，在这些国家，初级服装工人的工资还不到每月40美元。<span word="On">On</span> <span word="Sunday">Sunday</span>, <span word="Bangladeshs">Bangladeshs</span> <span word="textile">textile</span> <span word="minister">minister</span> <span word="said">said</span> <span word="he">he</span> <span word="will">will</span> <span word="soon">soon</span> <span word="start">start</span> <span word="talks">talks</span> <span word="with">with</span> <span word="labor">labor</span> <span word="groups">groups</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="factory">factory</span> <span word="owners">owners</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="agree">agree</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="new">new</span> <span word="minimum">minimum</span> <span word="wage">wage</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="industry">industry</span>.上周日，孟加拉纺织部长说，他将很快开始与劳工组织和工厂厂主对话，就一个新的工厂最低工资标准达成一致。<span word="Depending">Depending</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="size">size</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="wage">wage</span> <span word="increase">increase</span>, <span word="Western">Western</span> <span word="retailers">retailers</span> <span word="might">might</span> <span word="pull">pull</span> <span word="business">business</span> <span word="away">away</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="Bangladesh">Bangladesh</span>, <span word="though">though</span> <span word="wages">wages</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="would">would</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="quadruple">quadruple</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="top">top</span> <span word="those">those</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="China">China</span>.如果工资上涨幅度过大，西方零售商可能会将订单从孟加拉国转往别的国家，不过孟加拉国工人的工资要涨上三倍才能超过中国工人的工资。<span word="In">In</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="short">short</span> <span word="run">run</span>, <span word="brands">brands</span> <span word="might">might</span> <span word="absorb">absorb</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="rise">rise</span>, <span word="as">as</span> <span word="many">many</span> <span word="did">did</span> <span word="in">in</span> 2011, <span word="when">when</span> <span word="cotton">cotton</span> <span word="prices">prices</span> <span word="spiked">spiked</span>.短期而言，在孟加拉国生产服装的外国品牌可能需要自行消化这一工资上涨因素，就像他们中的许多2011年在棉花价格上涨时所做的那样。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="rush">rush</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="Bangladesh">Bangladesh</span> <span word="began">began</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="earnest">earnest</span> <span word="in">in</span> 2005, <span word="when">when</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="international">international</span> <span word="trade">trade</span> <span word="quota">quota</span> <span word="system">system</span> <span word="called">called</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="Multi">Multi</span> <span word="Fiber">Fiber</span> <span word="Arrangement">Arrangement</span> <span word="expired">expired</span>, <span word="lifting">lifting</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="strict">strict</span> <span word="limit">limit</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="amount">amount</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="textiles">textiles</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="garments">garments</span> <span word="developing">developing</span> <span word="countries">countries</span> <span word="could">could</span> <span word="export">export</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="developed">developed</span> <span word="countries">countries</span>.2005年，西方企业开始纷纷前往孟加拉国生产服装，那一年被称作《多种纤维协定》(<span word="Multi">Multi</span> <span word="Fiber">Fiber</span> <span word="Arrangement">Arrangement</span>)的国际贸易配额体制正式到期，发展中国家向发达国家出口纺织品和服装此后不再面临严格的数量限制。<span word="Manufacturers">Manufacturers</span> <span word="saw">saw</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="cheaper">cheaper</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="manufacture">manufacture</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Bangladesh">Bangladesh</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="places">places</span> <span word="like">like</span> <span word="Cambodia">Cambodia</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="China">China</span>, <span word="especially">especially</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="those">those</span> <span word="manufacturers">manufacturers</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Europe">Europe</span>, <span word="where">where</span> <span word="transportation">transportation</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="cheaper">cheaper</span> <span word="than">than</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="China">China</span>, <span word="says">says</span> <span word="Katie">Katie</span> <span word="Quan">Quan</span>, <span word="associate">associate</span> <span word="chair">chair</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="University">University</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="California">California</span>, <span word="Berkeley">Berkeley</span>, <span word="Center">Center</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="Labor">Labor</span> <span word="Research">Research</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Education">Education</span>.美国加州大学伯克利分校劳工研究与教育中心副主任关少兰(<span word="Katie">Katie</span> <span word="Quan">Quan</span>)说，制造商们发现，孟加拉国和柬埔寨等地的生产成本比中国低，对欧洲的制造商来说尤其如此，孟加拉国和柬埔寨至欧洲的运输成本比中欧间的运输成本低。<span word="Inexpensive">Inexpensive</span> <span word="clothing">clothing</span> <span word="allows">allows</span> <span word="consumers">consumers</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="buy">buy</span> <span word="more">more</span>. <span word="When">When</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="little">little</span> <span word="kid">kid</span> <span word="in">in</span> 1950, <span word="clothes">clothes</span> <span word="werent">werent</span> <span word="so">so</span> <span word="cheap">cheap</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="remember">remember</span> <span word="we">we</span> <span word="only">only</span> <span word="had">had</span> <span word="three">three</span> <span word="or">or</span> <span word="four">four</span> <span word="dresses">dresses</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="plenty">plenty</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="middle">middle</span>-<span word="class">class</span> <span word="girl">girl</span>, <span word="Ms">Ms</span>. <span word="Quan">Quan</span> <span word="said">said</span>. <span word="Now">Now</span> <span word="I">I</span> <span word="have">have</span> <span word="three">three</span> <span word="closets">closets</span> <span word="full">full</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="not">not</span> <span word="enough">enough</span>.消费者由于服装价格低廉得以购买更多衣服。关少兰说，当我上世纪50年代还是个小孩子时，服装可没有现在这么便宜，我记得我们只有三套或四套衣服，对于一个中产阶级家庭的女孩来说这已经很多了。她说，我现在的三个衣柜全都装得满满的，而这还不够。<span word="Yet">Yet</span> <span word="when">when</span> <span word="shifts">shifts</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="global">global</span> <span word="labor">labor</span> <span word="costs">costs</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="production">production</span> <span word="occur">occur</span> <span word="abruptly">abruptly</span>, <span word="they">they</span> <span word="can">can</span> <span word="put">put</span> <span word="enormous">enormous</span> <span word="pressure">pressure</span> <span word="on">on</span> <span word="economies">economies</span>.但当全球劳动力成本和生产格局突然发生变化时，将会给经济带来巨大压力。<span word="In">In</span> <span word="Bangladeshs">Bangladeshs</span> <span word="case">case</span>, <span word="major">major</span> <span word="factories">factories</span> <span word="became">became</span> <span word="overbooked">overbooked</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="so">so</span> <span word="subcontracted">subcontracted</span> <span word="more">more</span> <span word="work">work</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="smaller">smaller</span> <span word="outfits">outfits</span>. <span word="Such">Such</span> <span word="subcontracting">subcontracting</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="increasing">increasing</span> <span word="role">role</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="middlemen">middlemen</span>, <span word="have">have</span> <span word="made">made</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="easier">easier</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="retailers">retailers</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="lose">lose</span> <span word="track">track</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="which">which</span> <span word="factories">factories</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="producing">producing</span> <span word="their">their</span> <span word="goods">goods</span>─<span word="and">and</span>, <span word="many">many</span> <span word="critics">critics</span> <span word="say">say</span>, <span word="to">to</span> <span word="avoid">avoid</span> <span word="taking">taking</span> <span word="responsibility">responsibility</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="poor">poor</span> <span word="factory">factory</span> <span word="conditions">conditions</span>.就孟加拉国的情况而言，大型企业接获的订单都超出了它们的生产能力，因此这些企业纷纷将更多工作分包给中小企业去做。这种分包行为以及中间人在这一过程中所起的作用日益增大，使得零售商更加难以追踪到究竟是哪些工厂在生产其定制的服装，而在许多批评人士看来，这也使得零售商们更加容易免于为工厂恶劣的工作条件承担责任。<span word="The">The</span> <span word="upshot">upshot</span>: <span word="Bangladesh">Bangladesh</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="quickly">quickly</span> <span word="become">become</span> <span word="among">among</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="worlds">worlds</span> <span word="largest">largest</span> <span word="exporters">exporters</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="clothing">clothing</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="suffered">suffered</span> <span word="one">one</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="worst">worst</span> <span word="industrial">industrial</span> <span word="accidents">accidents</span> <span word="ever">ever</span>.其结果是：孟加拉国迅速跻身于世界最大服装出口国之列，但世界有史以来最严重的工业事故之一也随之在这个国家发生。<span word="If">If</span> <span word="wages">wages</span> <span word="rise">rise</span> <span word="quickly">quickly</span> <span word="elsewhere">elsewhere</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="producers">producers</span> <span word="all">all</span> <span word="flee">flee</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="same">same</span> <span word="place">place</span>, <span word="you">you</span> <span word="obviously">obviously</span> <span word="can">can</span> <span word="overwhelm">overwhelm</span> <span word="an">an</span> <span word="economy">economy</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="seems">seems</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="be">be</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="bit">bit</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Bangladesh">Bangladesh</span>, <span word="says">says</span> <span word="Robert">Robert</span> <span word="Frank">Frank</span>, <span word="an">an</span> <span word="economics">economics</span> <span word="professor">professor</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="Cornell">Cornell</span> <span word="University">University</span>. <span word="The">The</span> <span word="influx">influx</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="manufacturing">manufacturing</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="so">so</span> <span word="quick">quick</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="very">very</span> <span word="little">little</span> <span word="time">time</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="adjust">adjust</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="it">it</span>.美国康奈尔大学(<span word="Cornell">Cornell</span> <span word="University">University</span>)经济学教授弗兰克(<span word="Robert">Robert</span> <span word="Frank">Frank</span>)说，如果世界其他地方的工资水平出现迅速上涨，制造商们全都涌向一个地方从事生产，这个地方的经济显然会不堪承受重负，孟加拉国似乎就有点是这种情况。他说，制造业汇聚到这里的速度是如此之快，当地几乎没有时间就此做出调整。<span word="Zaras">Zaras</span> <span word="clothes">clothes</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="found">found</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="latest">latest</span> <span word="factory">factory</span> <span word="fire">fire</span> <span word="last">last</span> <span word="week">week</span>. <span word="Inditex">Inditex</span> <span word="SA">SA</span>, <span word="Zaras">Zaras</span> <span word="parent">parent</span> <span word="company">company</span>, <span word="didnt">didnt</span> <span word="immediately">immediately</span> <span word="respond">respond</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="request">request</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="comment">comment</span>.在孟加拉国上周最新一起工厂火灾的现场发现了<span word="Zara">Zara</span>品牌的服装，<span word="Zara">Zara</span>的母公司<span word="Inditex">Inditex</span> <span word="SA">SA</span>未立即对记者寻求置评的要求做出回应。<span word="Clothes">Clothes</span> <span word="for">for</span> <span word="J">J</span>.<span word="C">C</span>. <span word="Penney">Penney</span> <span word="Co">Co</span>., <span word="JCP">JCP</span> +2.07% <span word="Benetton">Benetton</span>, <span word="Wal">Wal</span>-<span word="Mart">Mart</span> <span word="Stores">Stores</span> <span word="Inc">Inc</span>. <span word="WMT">WMT</span> +0.63% <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Loblaw">Loblaw</span> <span word="Cos">Cos</span>. <span word="Joe">Joe</span> <span word="Fresh">Fresh</span> <span word="brand">brand</span> <span word="were">were</span> <span word="found">found</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="recent">recent</span> <span word="factory">factory</span> <span word="accidents">accidents</span> <span word="in">in</span> <span word="Bangladesh">Bangladesh</span>.而在孟加拉国近期一系列工厂事故的事发现场，人们发现了<span word="J">J</span>.<span word="C">C</span>. <span word="Penney">Penney</span> <span word="Co">Co</span>.、贝纳通(<span word="Benetton">Benetton</span>)、沃尔玛(<span word="Wal">Wal</span>-<span word="Mart">Mart</span> <span word="Stores">Stores</span> <span word="Inc">Inc</span>.)和<span word="Loblaw">Loblaw</span> <span word="Cos">Cos</span>.旗下<span word="Joe">Joe</span> <span word="Fresh">Fresh</span>等零售商下单生产的服装。<span word="Many">Many</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="retailers">retailers</span>, <span word="such">such</span> <span word="as">as</span> <span word="Penney">Penney</span> <span word="and">and</span> <span word="Wal">Wal</span>-<span word="Mart">Mart</span>, <span word="have">have</span> <span word="said">said</span> <span word="they">they</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="phasing">phasing</span> <span word="out">out</span> <span word="use">use</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="factories">factories</span> <span word="within">within</span> <span word="multiuse">multiuse</span> <span word="buildings">buildings</span>. <span word="Loblaw">Loblaw</span> <span word="said">said</span> <span word="it">it</span> <span word="plans">plans</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="expand">expand</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="scope">scope</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="its">its</span> <span word="factory">factory</span> <span word="audits">audits</span>.<span word="J">J</span>.<span word="C">C</span>. <span word="Penney">Penney</span>和沃尔玛等许多这些零售商说，它们正在逐步放弃让在多用户建筑里从事生产的工厂为其加工服装。<span word="Loblaw">Loblaw</span>说，它计划扩大其工厂审计的规模。<span word="Benetton">Benetton</span> <span word="said">said</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="one">one</span>-<span word="time">time</span> <span word="order">order</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="collapsed">collapsed</span> <span word="factory">factory</span> <span word="was">was</span> <span word="completed">completed</span> <span word="weeks">weeks</span> <span word="ago">ago</span>, <span word="and">and</span> <span word="that">that</span> <span word="none">none</span> <span word="of">of</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="companies">companies</span> <span word="there">there</span> <span word="is">is</span> <span word="a">a</span> <span word="supplier">supplier</span> <span word="now">now</span>.贝纳通说，它交给孟加拉国那座垮塌建筑中一家工厂的一笔一次性订单已于数周前完成，在那座建筑里从事生产的企业目前没有一家是贝纳通的供应商。<span word="Another">Another</span> <span word="shopper">shopper</span> <span word="at">at</span> <span word="Zara">Zara</span>, <span word="Mary">Mary</span> <span word="Park">Park</span>, <span word="said">said</span> <span word="she">she</span> <span word="isnt">isnt</span> <span word="bothered">bothered</span> <span word="by">by</span> <span word="where">where</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="clothes">clothes</span> <span word="are">are</span> <span word="made">made</span>.另一位在<span word="Zara">Zara</span>门店购物的顾客帕克(<span word="Mary">Mary</span> <span word="Park">Park</span>)说，她并不在意所买的服装是哪里生产的。<span word="I">I</span> <span word="am">am</span> <span word="from">from</span> <span word="China">China</span>, <span word="said">said</span> <span word="Ms">Ms</span>. <span word="Park">Park</span>, <span word="a">a</span> 27-<span word="year">year</span>-<span word="old">old</span> <span word="cosmetics">cosmetics</span> <span word="saleswoman">saleswoman</span>. <span word="Manufacturing">Manufacturing</span> <span word="has">has</span> <span word="been">been</span> <span word="good">good</span> <span word="to">to</span> <span word="the">the</span> <span word="country">country</span>.这名27岁的化妆品推销员说，我来自中国，制造业一直对中国起着积极作用。</p>

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